Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

129.4 Hp at the tread. More power than my stock ZZR1100. (128Hp)
Bike stock except no cat, and inner foam of snorkel removed. Jet kit was nearly a waste of time because I went back to stock 35 pilots and near stock jetting (95/98 instead of 92/95) Ended up using needles from jet kit with clips on second from top groove.
More fiddling to come when I get a pipe and filter etc. Got jetting swap down to one hour 10 minutes.

bonester wrote: Got jetting swap down to one hour 10 minutes.

You da Man.
I have changed my jets 4 times. God those springs are a pain in the a#se to refit, not to mention the filter side boots . Doesn't get any easier as the bike ages & the rubber hardens either.
I think my first time was about 5 hours, got that down to 2hrs. I have almost gone the Pod route just to make jet changes easier .
As far as jetting goes I am running 105 Mains, 38 pilots with K&N filter Drilled Airbox, Block-off plates, Kerker Meg & ZZR Cams on my '01 1200. Last time on the Dyno (Pre Kerker, just C/F slip-on) that was running a perfect A/F ratio.

bonester wrote:129.4 Hp at the tread. More power than my stock ZZR1100. (128Hp)
Bike stock except no cat, and inner foam of snorkel removed. Jet kit was nearly a waste of time because I went back to stock 35 pilots and near stock jetting (95/98 instead of 92/95) Ended up using needles from jet kit with clips on second from top groove.
More fiddling to come when I get a pipe and filter etc. Got jetting swap down to one hour 10 minutes.

Mate is there much difference in the taper of the stock needles over the kit needles?? reason I ask, is if you reckon that the jetting is OK or close enough, I might just shim the needles on mine and see how that works before lashing out on the jet kit!


BTW, let me know if there is much difference in economy once you get a chance will ya?

I think the secret to getting the airbox on is to remove the two bolts next to the rubber bung that the fuel tank sits on and to take the sidecovers off the airbox too. It allows a little more movement of the airbox. I reckon it would be even a bigger bitch if the rubbers were a bit hard. I've had plenty of airbox fitting practice since I installed both my GT550 and GT750 airboxes recently. The 550 took two fuggin hours to fit since the rubbers had gone hard. I was pretty close to going apeshit after trying to fit the fugger. The 750 went straight on since I bought new rubbers for it (and the 550 since). They only cost $50 a set. Maybe ZRX ones are similar money. I put the springs and the boots on with a long flat blade screwdriver- get most of them on with my fingers first and finish with the driver. The dyno boys have since sold me on two foot long screwdrivers which make this sort of work soooooooo easy. Bought a flatblade and philips from supercheap today for $16.... Another thing I find that makes life easier is to remove the front brake lever to improve access to the throttle assembly when reconnecting the cables.

Mate is there much difference in the taper of the stock needles over the kit needles?? reason I ask, is if you reckon that the jetting is OK or close enough, I might just shim the needles on mine and see how that works before lashing out on the jet kit!

There is a lot of difference in the taper. That wouldn't stop me from shimming the stock needles. I guess the taper would only affect response. I think the jet kit is a waste of money unless you have a pipe and filter etc. One thing to watch though is that the stock needles are different lengths- don't mix them up. Inner ones are shorter. (to richen the hotter running middle cylinders.)

BTW Gonna put clips on top slot on needles. Still a bit rich at part throttle.

BTW, let me know if there is much difference in economy once you get a chance will ya?

Will do.

bonester wrote:.....Inner ones are shorter. (to richen the hotter running middle cylinders.) ......

Bones - whats the go with this ? You also mentioned earlier about running bigger mains in #2 and #3......why ?

I would have thought that being water-cooled, with water-jackets all round the barrel, that the temperature difference between the outer and inner cylinders would be (or should be) basically 2/5'ths of 5/8ths of SFA on a motor like this ??

I know on the old air-cooled motors, if they were worked a bit (overbored and such) then it was a good idea to have slightly larger mains for #2 & #3, and especially big old 2-stroke triples, where the #2 (middle) cylinder always got hotter than the outer ones.....

I just don't understand why its needed on a water-cooled bike ? The radiator does all the work.....there is no air-cooling involved....

Having said that, even the AMCN long-term ZRX that Ken Wootton is doing up, also mentioned running bigger mains in the inside 2 cylinders in the last issue....

Its got me beat. Whats the story mate ?

Beyond what I know Gos. Standard they do, so I repeated it when jetting it up. Maybe there is still a temp difference? I'm a bit sus on that AMCN bike. Musta been something *REALLY* wrong with it to get such an improvement with the jet kit on an otherwise stock bike. The same setting they used absolutely fucked my bike.

BTW jetkit needles are all the same.

Think it must be a inner cylinder heat associated thingy. I remember when my stage one factory jet kit arrived I noticed only two of each sizing in jet selection. Just for intrest sake my final jetting settings were pilot jet remained at 35, main jets were 105 outside, 108 inside snorkle removed fuel screws 2.5 turns out. Just perfect for my full akra system.132.09 hp and 87.40 torque.

Kewl. Good power out of a bike in a low state of tune, huh.
BTW anyone got any experience with a stainless Yoshi RS3 pipe? Got a line on a good price on one. How loud? Good power? Aren't USA made Yoshis shit?

Recently found a kiwi bloke selling Carby overhaul kits on Feebay. waiting for one to arrive to enhance Binther's 250r. The Waki racebike has given me no end of grief since i went to an expence premix & reduced ratio to 40 - 1.
Finally got the jetting right but have to change the pilot jet next. this stuff is a pain in the bum until you get it close then its fun.

bonester, bonester got ayoshi rs3 full system not too loud great note see post on anyone following amcn project cheers take it easy

Thanks mate. Missed out on it- ebay. Cost too much. Was $300, new!