Headlight globe for zrx

[Clarkixlc]

Hey guys just want some opinions on a new globe for my zrx. I wouldn't mind something a little bit brighter then stock.
Without going for the HID route.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Phil]

Raybrig headlight, much better than stock

[Clarkixlc]

Mate where would be the best place to pick one up at ? And what do they go for ?

[J.B]

Yep agree with Phil on this one. The Raybrig is quite nice.

If you can find them, the Osram Night Racer Plus bulbs are a good change too. Made a noticable difference when I installed it in my stock headlight. Now I have it in a Raybrig

[J.B]

Mate where would be the best place to pick one up at ? And what do they go for ?

Best bet is to contact Moriwaki Man in Japan. Cost is around $150 or so.

You can also check them out on webike. Just search for Raybrig and you want an FB05 or FB06.

[bonester]

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/kawasaki-ZRX ... 2eb49719d9

That is the one I bought and it is a cheap Raybrig copy. It changes the way the light falls. I found that the problem with the ZRX is neither the headlight nor the bulb, but the WIRING. If you are handy with a soldering iron, heavier wiring and relays will improve the headlight no end. My end result is reaaly good- I have the wiring done, the cheapo headlight and a Narva Plus50 bulb. The brighter bulbs don't last though- on my fourth. The stock bulb is OK with the headlight and wiring done though.

[BrettZZR]

It goes without saying to stay away from the cheapie eGay ones. The filament is not in exactly the right place, so affects the light distribution from the reflector etc. Also those blue ones are crap - they filter some of the infra red out and that makes them burn much hotter (the energy has to go somewhere).

I have used many high wattage H4 bulbs successfully in my various cars and bikes. The highest I used was a 130/90W but that was pushing it.

There are a few keys here:
The bulb itself makes heat. A 60W bulb is a 59,5W heater, and a 0,5W light. A 100W bulb is a 99W heater and a 1W light. This is just for info for now.
Loose connections (ie the spades inside the multi-pin connector) will be a resistance and a source of heat. I have taken to using ceramic connectors (available on eBay)

Pull the actual spades out of the connector and squeeze them gently with a pair of pliers to make sure they are tight on the spades.
Make sure any connections (wire) you make are good - preferably crimped with a heavy ferrule, or at least soldered.
Make sure that you aim it properly. Only thing worse then an poorly aimed light is a poorly aimed 100 watter! Because I'm often 2-up, I have the light aimed a bit low, but it's good when 'loaded'.
After fitting, monitor it the next couple of night-rides you do. As you switch off stick your hand in there and feel the wires and the back of the rubber boot over the bulb holder. They should be no more than warm.

Just one other thing: I don't use the 'pass' function. If you do, do so judiciously, as when you hit 'pass' both filaments are on, so you have roughly 4 time the heat generation going on. I guess it's only for a second it's okay, but be aware.

(-8

[bonester]

It's alright to use higher wattage bulbs in the ZZR1100 coz it has a glass lens and metal reflector.IIRC. Need to watch plastic headlights using higher wattage bulbs. IIRC cheapy light I use has a glass lens but plastic reflector. Can't remember what stock was.

[Phil]

Stock is a glass lens Weighs a ton

[bonester]

Is the reflector plastic or metal, Phil? I could get off my arse and dig my old one out but CBF.

[Phil]

Is the reflector plastic or metal, Phil? I could get off my arse and dig my old one out but CBF.

Not sure, mine is in a box somewhere, I'd need to figure where and dig it out. I have had the raybrig on for about 4 years now and would never go back.