Zephyr with idle problems

Hi Guys,
This is my first post on this forum, but I've read a few posts as a guest, and I'm amazed by the knowledge that gets around here. I've been slowly doing a custom build, and am 90% there with a few tuning issues to get sorted. I'm determined to get this sorted without resorting to a mechanic, because nothing beats fixing it yourself and knowing how to fix it next time...
I'm building a 91 zephyr 750 in a kinda rat / cafer racer style, and am trying to get it running without the airbox (k&n pod filters). It runs a bank of keihin CVK32's. I've been told that these carbs need good vacuum to really perform (which is hard to get without an airbox?), but I'll be happy to get it running smooth and properly. Prior to any changes to the carbs, without the airbox and with free flowing exhaust I was only getting 1/8th throttle before total loss of power (leaning out). No surprises there, so I ordered a kit for the carbs and fitted new main jets 122.5 on the outers and 125's on the inners. I shimmed the needles up with 2 washers, set the idle screws to 2 1/2 turns out, and took it for a spin (without filters at all because it's a hassle taking them on and off all the time). There was decent mid and top end power, but low end and idle were all over the shop. setting the idle with the throttle stop was near impossible with the idle racing and not settling. If i wound the throttle stop screw out to lower the idle it would drop for a few seconds, then get bumpy and slowly stall out. Whilst test riding I find it impossible to set the throttle screw properly, as to idle at lights i find a setting that works, but then when going up the gears as i pass through neutral it revs hard until i release the clutch and the engine load brings the revs down again. When braking and lowering the revs, at the lights again the idle is at a reasonable level, but slowly gets worse and would stall without a slight touch on the throttle to keep it idling.
I've cleaned the carbs as much as possible without compressed air, and have fitted new pilot screws and pilot screw o rings.
I'm certain the carbs are out of balance, but i can't get the idle consistent enough to do the balancing. I suspect an air leak, and the carb rubbers are quite cracked, so that's my next step. I suspect that carb manifolds which were borderline ok have been made worse by my removing the carbs so many times and are now leaking everywhere. I tried a wd40 spray test, but without much luck. I'm ordering new manifolds ($160 from the stealer) but I'm time poor at the moment and need to rule out vacuum leaks.
I am yet to test the float height (tomorrow's job) but would that cause an issue described above?
Whilst inspecting the carb manifolds I also saw some oil in the inlet ports on the head, so I'm thinking that I potentially have inlet valves that are sticking/staying open? I don't have a compression tester, but maybe I can source one tomorrow (an excuse to buy another tool!).
Some nay-sayers are telling me that it'll never run well with pod but I'm sure that heaps of bikes (some with CV carbs) run really well once setup right.
I realise this isn't really a question, and more of an intro / rant, but I'm really trying to wrap my brain around this problem and putting out some feelers helps. Any responders with similar experiences would be appreciated. I'll repost with some pics from the garage tomorrow and update with the float height settings and valve clearance / compression checks.
Cheers,
Bryan
This is my first post on this forum, but I've read a few posts as a guest, and I'm amazed by the knowledge that gets around here. I've been slowly doing a custom build, and am 90% there with a few tuning issues to get sorted. I'm determined to get this sorted without resorting to a mechanic, because nothing beats fixing it yourself and knowing how to fix it next time...
I'm building a 91 zephyr 750 in a kinda rat / cafer racer style, and am trying to get it running without the airbox (k&n pod filters). It runs a bank of keihin CVK32's. I've been told that these carbs need good vacuum to really perform (which is hard to get without an airbox?), but I'll be happy to get it running smooth and properly. Prior to any changes to the carbs, without the airbox and with free flowing exhaust I was only getting 1/8th throttle before total loss of power (leaning out). No surprises there, so I ordered a kit for the carbs and fitted new main jets 122.5 on the outers and 125's on the inners. I shimmed the needles up with 2 washers, set the idle screws to 2 1/2 turns out, and took it for a spin (without filters at all because it's a hassle taking them on and off all the time). There was decent mid and top end power, but low end and idle were all over the shop. setting the idle with the throttle stop was near impossible with the idle racing and not settling. If i wound the throttle stop screw out to lower the idle it would drop for a few seconds, then get bumpy and slowly stall out. Whilst test riding I find it impossible to set the throttle screw properly, as to idle at lights i find a setting that works, but then when going up the gears as i pass through neutral it revs hard until i release the clutch and the engine load brings the revs down again. When braking and lowering the revs, at the lights again the idle is at a reasonable level, but slowly gets worse and would stall without a slight touch on the throttle to keep it idling.
I've cleaned the carbs as much as possible without compressed air, and have fitted new pilot screws and pilot screw o rings.
I'm certain the carbs are out of balance, but i can't get the idle consistent enough to do the balancing. I suspect an air leak, and the carb rubbers are quite cracked, so that's my next step. I suspect that carb manifolds which were borderline ok have been made worse by my removing the carbs so many times and are now leaking everywhere. I tried a wd40 spray test, but without much luck. I'm ordering new manifolds ($160 from the stealer) but I'm time poor at the moment and need to rule out vacuum leaks.
I am yet to test the float height (tomorrow's job) but would that cause an issue described above?
Whilst inspecting the carb manifolds I also saw some oil in the inlet ports on the head, so I'm thinking that I potentially have inlet valves that are sticking/staying open? I don't have a compression tester, but maybe I can source one tomorrow (an excuse to buy another tool!).
Some nay-sayers are telling me that it'll never run well with pod but I'm sure that heaps of bikes (some with CV carbs) run really well once setup right.
I realise this isn't really a question, and more of an intro / rant, but I'm really trying to wrap my brain around this problem and putting out some feelers helps. Any responders with similar experiences would be appreciated. I'll repost with some pics from the garage tomorrow and update with the float height settings and valve clearance / compression checks.
Cheers,
Bryan