B1 gpz1100 project

[Gosling1]

You could try and source the complete biking fairing and instrument cluster from the next model - the B2. There may be some mods required to the wiring harness - nothing ever just bolts straight up.

Fitting the Z-style twin bezel instruments would be difficult - these use cast-in lugs on the front of the top clamp to bolt up. No lugs exist on the B1-style top clamp. You would need to make up a solid adapter bracket of some sort if you wanted to use these instruments - again, not difficult but they won't just bolt straight up to the stock B1 clamps.

[CATdoctor]

Cool thanks again Gosling, I am fine with making brackets etc and making harnesses, I just mean the speedo drive etc would it be electric or gear driven, as well as where it picks up it rpm signal.

Cheers josh

[CATdoctor]

I bought an engine and a fair few spares to use for my rebuild off of a guy who ran a kz b engine in his sprint car so I am cheering as I have scored some great stuff!

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[Gosling1]

......Cool thanks again Gosling, I am fine with making brackets etc and making harnesses, I just mean the speedo drive etc would it be electric or gear driven, as well as where it picks up it rpm signal........

woops missed this one. The J speedo drive uses an electric signal from the pickup in the front hub. The tacho signal on the J/GPz motors comes from the low-tension side of the ignition coil.

Those spares look good

[CATdoctor]

Oh and also, the spare cases that he had are Z1 E eng number but are in great shape compared to my KZBT case (original ) could I use this earlier case with my internals? Or should I just stick with the original case?

Cheers

Below is a pic of the engine removed, must have been running really smokey for a while going by the carbon build up on the pistons

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[Gosling1]

.....Oh and also, the spare cases that he had are Z1 E eng number but are in great shape compared to my KZBT case (original ) could I use this earlier case with my internals? Or should I just stick with the original case?

Cheers

Below is a pic of the engine removed, must have been running really smokey for a while going by the carbon build up on the pistons

......

The GPz gearbox is different to the Z1E gearbox. You can adapt the GPz head to the early bottom-ends easily enough, but not do a case-change like you are suggesting - too many differences. Just stick with your original KZBT cases .....they are easy to split, and you can then give the cases a good detail.

Those pistons look normal to me - there is always some amount of carbon residue on any piston that comes out of a motor - those ones look totally normal to me. A large carbon build-up is one that you can measure with a match-head

[CATdoctor]

Yeah ok no worries I thought as much with the cases, cheers for that. the z1 case looks like it is nearly brand new so I thought I would ask. Yeah it doesn't show that well in the pics but you could measure the loosely formed carbon with a match head.

[CATdoctor]

Hello again,

Well its been a really long time since I started my gpz project and I have not really progressed as far as I would have liked by now, due to numerous factors money, work.....lack of enthusiasim after swinging spanners all week for a job haha. The work completed so far- complete strip of bike back to frame, frame sent for checking and found to be twisted slighty and was straightened, frame and parts sandblasted and powdercoated satin black, engine I had stripped and rebuilt by a Kawasaki whiz in Brisbane bottom end checked, clutch plates cleaned up and heavy clutch springs installed, crank checked for alignment and found to be perfect, capacity increased to 1170 with wiseco pistons, head ports polished, all new valve train and ape cam chain tensioner, all new bolts and seals, painted satin black, I have fitted an earlier "DOHC" ignition cover and filed back the paint on the cooling fins as I like the look, have re-assembled the frame, swingarm and steering head with new bearings all around, have installed a new motobatt battery and dyna s ignition with 3ohm green coils and dyna suppression primary wires, currently in the process of creating a custom wiring harness out of a kz1000 harness in great nick.
Parts I have sourced for the bike and have not fitted yet are new wheel bearings, brake slave cylinder kits, forks seals, a really nice set of VM33 mikiuni smoothbores, a vance and hines drag pipe, a nice second hand set of marzocchi strada rear shocks and new rebuild kit for em, a set of superbike bars, a gauge set from a 83 kz1100 and still to source a round headlight still haven't decided if I will just stick to the standard gauge and headlight, new decals for tank and side,tail, a spare seat to convert to a elr.
So still making progress but slowly, am so keen to get the big girl on the road I think it will be a thing of beauty and sound like no other bike in the area.

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[CATdoctor]

the mighty Z1

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the Kawasaki bug has bitten, a B1 1977 z650 that I could not go past for the price. next project haha

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[CATdoctor]

fun with wiring

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[Gosling1]

mate the big old Geeper is looking great ! I reckon with all those mods you are doing, it should go pretty quick as well can't wait to see some photos when its finished....

lol at the 650 - sometimes bargains just have to be snapped up. Biggest issue with these models is the starter clutch - its internal and needs some tricky work to fix, if you want to do it without splitting the cases (which is the the factory method). If the starter clutch works OK - leave it alone. Sometimes a change of oil will help a sticky starter clutch as well......

[CATdoctor]

Thanks Gosling, I think it will be really nice when I can get my act together haha.
cheers for the tips on the z650, unfortunately the starter clutch is slipping as well as the kick start cog!
But i put it in gear and turned it over by the back wheel and it turns freely with heaps of compression, the guy I bought it off said it has a 720 kit in it by the previous owner. I will try a oil change and see if the starter picks up. If not I will attempt the impossible keyhole surgery, can I get at the kick start clutch in situ or is it a split cases jobby? I plan on making this beautiful piece of Japanese engineering my daily rider, but it has to wait it's turn in line.

[Gosling1]

you can get at the starter clutch in-situ - but that requires the engine out of the frame, or the bike turned upside-down (like doing tyres on your pushie )

oil has to be drained before either of these methods used. What you need to do is take off the sump and this allows you to get to the starter clutch without splitting the cases. Its quite a fiddly arse job but worth the effort. Keep the oil clean and changed regularly will help delay any more starter-clutch slip for a while.