Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Ok, so I've done the Kleen mod, made and fitted a quick action throttle insert, changed the oil, brake fluid, cleaned the air filter, raised the rear ride height a bit, changed the levers (anyone want shorty pazzo type ones. ?) and mucked around with different maps for PCV - what else can I do.??

I just spent the arvo fixing the rattle gun, so thinking about changing the front sprocket to a 15 T - whats a good gearing set up.?

Any base suspension settings that work - Ride heights etc.. It feels pretty good atm on the few short rides I've been on, but think if it can be better. I've raised the rear a little with 1 washer at the shock but may raise the forks in the triples a little too to get it drop in a bit quicker.? As its mostly for the road don't want to go too far - but I did read in sportsbike mag they raised the forks (dropped the front) 11mm.?
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/suggeste ... n-settings

Steering damper is shit - thinking about revalving - if so who.?

So is the rattle gun working again?

Spanner day on the weekend?

I hope you really fixed that rattle gun 'cause removing the front sprocket on a 09 ZX6R is an 'experience' hahaha I seriously had 3 different mechanics have a go and even the 3rd one struggled to remove it. Thankfully he had a more than overkill setup... For road riding, -1 would be plenty... IMHO even a bit too much but then again, I'd never own a litre road bike for the same reason! hahaha For track use I think -1/+1 is the sweet spot for EC (GP circuit)

The steering damper is pretty useless but when your suspension is properly dialed in it really makes no difference... I ran the OEM for a loooooong time and once the suspension was set up properly I never felt like I needed anything better. Still got a revalved one eventually but now use it just 2-3 clicks from full soft... t

Not gonna give you any tips with the suspension 'cause I'm not even remotely knowledgeable enough!

If want to mod it a bit more, get it a full exhaust before the stupid cats collapse in the headers... it also helps you to remove a ton of weight from that midchamber thingy.

Yeh Frank - after pulling it apart and checking the brushes I couldn't find anything wrong, so I pulled the handle apart and found a wire had come out from the trigger switch..

Thanks EDU, Hopefully the rattle gun will do it, its worked on quite a number of zx10's, but yeh, I hear the 6 one is a real bitch to get off....

I've heard about the CAT problems with these, Blurr had it happen on his race bike. Might keep an eye out for a full system to get rid of the CAT though.

I've got the slip on and the link pipe so the mid chamber thing is already gone.

More mods.......you need a ZRX and a contact list with Phil in it.....problem solved.

MadKaw wrote:Yeh Frank - after pulling it apart and checking the brushes I couldn't find anything wrong, so I pulled the handle apart and found a wire had come out from the trigger switch..

Thanks EDU, Hopefully the rattle gun will do it, its worked on quite a number of zx10's, but yeh, I hear the 6 one is a real bitch to get off....

I've heard about the CAT problems with these, Blurr had it happen on his race bike. Might keep an eye out for a full system to get rid of the CAT though.

I've got the slip on and the link pipe so the mid chamber thing is already gone.

The beast lives! That thing is a weapon.

Is the damper the same as gumby?

Wattie wrote:The beast lives! That thing is a weapon.

Is the damper the same as gumby?

Yeh I think it is... Hardly changes from full off to full on...

You'll have to change your avatar thingo too mate.

The Cat is welded into the headers madkaw!

I remember just having to slightly move the radiator to get the headers off. Hammer n chisel jobbie. Didnt take long!

Suspension wise I got NFI haha

fireyrob wrote:The Cat is welded into the headers madkaw!

I remember just having to slightly move the radiator to get the headers off. Hammer n chisel jobbie. Didnt take long!

Suspension wise I got NFI haha

Yeh I know, what a prick of an idea that is.. I remember Blurrs collapsed at one of the EC races..
Thats why I was thinking about the full system, but may knock it out instead..
Do you have to take the headers off or can you get it out from the exit...?

Didn't Zeno do your suspension.?

I took the headers off. Was easier as it needed a fair amount of chisel work to clear it all. For you the road fairings are the PITA.

Zeno I dont think is working anymore. I recently used Stuart Winton SW racing. My new shock has raised the rear 10mm, the stock shock I had the comp maxed out and nearly same on the rebound. Hence went a new shock. The road settings, youd have to ask Jay to check Dizzi's bike. Thats what zeno setup.

hth

MadKaw wrote:Ok, so I've done the Kleen mod, made and fitted a quick action throttle insert, changed the oil, brake fluid, cleaned the air filter, raised the rear ride height a bit, changed the levers (anyone want shorty pazzo type ones. ?) and mucked around with different maps for PCV - what else can I do.??

I just spent the arvo fixing the rattle gun, so thinking about changing the front sprocket to a 15 T - whats a good gearing set up.?

Any base suspension settings that work - Ride heights etc.. It feels pretty good atm on the few short rides I've been on, but think if it can be better. I've raised the rear a little with 1 washer at the shock but may raise the forks in the triples a little too to get it drop in a bit quicker.? As its mostly for the road don't want to go too far - but I did read in sportsbike mag they raised the forks (dropped the front) 11mm.?
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/suggeste ... n-settings

Steering damper is shit - thinking about revalving - if so who.?

1:3 or 15-45 works at Eastern Creek, so I would go for that ratio.

Zeno has retired. Al Samuals is my first choice for suspension these days, he just did my premodern GSXR750 and he and Nigel Pitch did my ZX10 a couple of years ago.

They don't re-valve the dampers, they just plug a hole in the needle. Al can do that as well.

just ride the phucking thing boss

re. gearing: down one at the front is just about right or a bit too much at the creek. 6th is just about topping out at the end of the straight for me. on the road gives much more usable torque although touring / straight sections at elevatd speeds it buzzes it's head off

Nelso wrote:
1:3 or 15-45 works at Eastern Creek, so I would go for that ratio.

Maybe on the pre-09 bikes, mate... or if you're running a 200 rear. I have had 15/45 on mine and with a 180 it hits the limiter in 6th before the 300m mark I think. A little later with a 190 and you can pretty much get away with it running a 200/55 but then again if you're faster than me out T12 it won't work.

Gearing depends a lot on your speed but Little Mick and I found that with a 190/55-60 rear, 15/44 was the sweet spot on the GP circuit (even Wetty uses that gearing IIRC) but when Ryan was doing 38-39s on my bike he had 15 front and the stock rear sprocket at the rear (43).