New 2013 ZX10R

[MH434]

Hello:)
I'm already planning mods and update's for my 13 ZX10r(haven't got it yet) and i was wondering how much you guys raise your rear end?
I was told shimming the rear shock changed the handling of the bike in a positive way.

My bike will be both used on track and street and is orderd with a öhlins TTX

I was thinking to start out at 7mm. A good start you think?

Hope to get some opinions:)

Norway

[MadKaw]

Welcome aboard..

I believe the ohlins has a ride height adjuster on it so you should be able to lift the rear with that.
If you prefer you can shim the upper shock mount with washers between the clevis and the frame mounting point.
or you could raise the forks thru the triple clamps yo drop the front a little..

[Wattie]

The new 636 comes standard with higher rear ride height over the 600.

I'd try it standard 1st. If you can't turn a 600 you may aswell give up.

[tim]

The new 636 comes standard with higher rear ride height over the 600.

I'd try it standard 1st. If you can't turn a 600 you may aswell give up.

(he's got a 10 )

[Maccarocks]

Hi Norway,

I have the Ohlins TTX in my track bike.. I actually have that set to standard shock length.. best off to add the shims (or washers as I used) to boost your ride height, as you are definitely going to need it. It is a very slow steerer, and remember this bike was designed to be a race bike, so the factory has 'dumbed' it down for the road so it is not such a beast to ride..

I used 3 x 3.3mm washers.. so you end up with a total of pretty much 10mm which is the reccomended height raise for the 2011 / 2012 ZX10's.. and I am sure the 2013 will be exactly the same. Very simple job to do.. I can pull my ZX10's apart with my eyes closed now... you just HAVE to follow the correct procedure and watch out for a few things when removing the plastic panels or you WILL break the lugs off....

Dont bother moving the forks or anything, the front end is perfect and only needs adjustment for better handling.. it will be very firm, but depending on your weight it can be made to work really well. It it good for high 30's and low 40's at Phillip Island with the right adjustment.. and that is saying something for a stock front end...!!! But the rear shock - stock is woeful on the track.. ok for the road...(as long as you dont have a pillion on the back )

If you want any more info on this model let me know.. I have got 2 of them and had them since new...

Macca

[MYZXR]

After reading another set up article I actually dropped my front end and it seems to have really brought the bike to life. Not that I'm that experienced with setting these things up but I'm really happy with it. I havnt had it in the track just local twistes and mountains.

[Maccarocks]

Just be careful when you change the front ride height.. as in every mm you change the front (as in slide the forks through the triple clamps) the effect is 3 times as dramatic as when you change the rear....

Seriously the front end of this model is excellent.. leave it at stock height.. just adjust the ride height at the rear.. If you change the front too much you are actually dramtically changing the trail and if you go too much even by a couple of mm's you can make the front want to tuck under in faster corners say where you are braking hard and the suspension is compressing which in itself is changing the trail, so adding that to what you have done can lead to tucknig the front under.. bad situation..

Look at the problem Triumph had with the 675...!! I had one of them as well and the front was so twitchy.. (a very good bike overall though) but it became worse when whe had to use the 190/55 tyres, not very confident inspiring.. but by adjusting the rear ride height you can make it better... and that's what we had to do to get it to handle better...

So I am just saying be careful if you are playing with the front.. !!

Macca

[MYZXR]

Yeah I no where your comin from. I have played with this set up a lot on dirt bikes and it makes heaps of difference. I was worried it would do the same on my 10 but it was fine. I actualy found it improved heaps over standard and wasn't twitch at all as I thought it would be. Below is a copy of the article i was talking about. I've set my bike to all these settings and think its great.

[Maccarocks]

Wow.. 11mm of tube showing above the triple clamp... thats huge..!!

But they have not mentioned anything about raising the rear ride height, so that would explain the huge amount.. I did have a mate drop his 5mm through, but we adjusted the rear slightly to make it work... personally I dont want to go any lower as the fairings would end up touching the track if I lowered the front any.. in fact I did touch down in the last race I was in.. so not much clearance there as you can see by this pic...!!

Also these settings are pretty general.. it all depends on your weight and your ride style.. as in how late and hard you are breaking etc.. My settings are totally different to this but I only weigh 72 kilos...

Macca

[MYZXR]

I guess the other thing is I'm not goin as fast as you blokes on the track. If I did track it I might notice a bit more twitch from the front but on my normal road loop it really feels great. Nice pic by the way.

[MadKaw]

This guy has his 10mm up at the rear and 10mm down at the front...

http://www.untamedvelocity.com/2011%20Z ... 0build.htm

[MYZXR]

This guy has his 10mm up at the rear and 10mm down at the front...

http://www.untamedvelocity.com/2011%20Z ... 0build.htm

thanks for that. Good find.

[Wattie]

The new 636 comes standard with higher rear ride height over the 600.

I'd try it standard 1st. If you can't turn a 600 you may aswell give up.

(he's got a 10 )

Oops... My bad!

Carry on!

[Icey_Cold]

That guy also has a MSS rear link, which makes his shock more linear instead of the stock link which is more progressive. I have a MSS 3.5 rear link which is even more linear. I was running a 11.5kg spring in the rear with the stock linkage, now I'm running a 10.5kg which I find is stiffer than the 11.5kg (ohlins ttx).