Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Is anyone running a PCV without the 02 optimiser?

Grabbed the last one from Bikebiz so prob solved... Serco have a long b/o....

wounderfull i need one right about now.
just got my 3/4 yoshi.

cloudnine9 wrote:wounderfull i need one right about now.
just got my 3/4 yoshi.

Brocks is the only pipe i would go with the 11/12 10R !at least they prove there gear..PS the PCV is a great peace of kit set up write.

ok been down this road and this is from the horse's mouth and from personal experience.
i have a 2012 ZX10R
with a 3/4 yoshi R77d fited.
the yoshi came without the bung for the O2 sensor. ( what a fuk up)
anyway heres the scoop.
there is no way no how to get rid of the O2 sensor on the Australian modle ZX10R
can't be done.
you have to have a optimiser & the O2 sensor to run a PCV and your tuner is going to hate you for weeks after he tunes your bike.
because of the way the stock ECU was designed for our modle, the PCV HAS TO HAVE the optimiser and the O2 sensor or you can not tune it.
end of story.
and for the part of your tuner hating you. he will have to tune a Map for every gear or your tune will SUCK
and that is from serco direct and the tuner that is doing my bike and a mates 2012 zx10's
there are lots of guys saying they fit the pcv's and tune them no probs but most of them are doing it with the cat still fitted and just a slipon pipe fitted. NOT a 3/4 or full system fitted.
if you get a 3/4 pipe from the states make sure it has a bung for the o2 sensor, yoshi had to pay to get one fitted on both our bikes. because they imported the american modle pipes here with knowing the differences.
hope this helps or prewarns the masses that are yet to mod there 2011/2012 ZX10's
ansd if your thinking a Bazz system can get around it WRONG they are farther behind dynojet for tech stuff on these bikes that you realise.

serco has plenty optimisers. but they don't like selling to the public.
my tuner rang at 9am and 1 was in his office same day and this was 8 days ago.

What optimizer part number did they end up selling you ? The power commander web site for the 2011-2012 Zx-10r recommends 76125035 for the Euro Model although apparently the AUS delivered bikes are running a different ECU than the euro model no idea what is different about it.
Serco only sell the 76125020 part number for the zx-10r which when you receive it is designed for a Zx6-r but is the one you need to use ? Interested to see what you ended up with.

The other mystery question i am chasing the answer for is what is the Closed loop range for the Zx-10r it is 1000rpm different from the Zx6 in the installation instructions but i am not sure if the Aus delivered model is the same as the Euro version given we have different ECU's.

shannony wrote:
The other mystery question i am chasing the answer for is what is the Closed loop range for the Zx-10r it is 1000rpm different from the Zx6 in the installation instructions but i am not sure if the Aus delivered model is the same as the Euro version given we have different ECU's.

If you cant find the answer to that, you can work out the transition from close to open loop via the 02 sensor to ECU wire with a multimeter whilst the engine is running and preferably moving.

I had an issue with fuel hesitation between close to open loop transition in my old mx5 trackie, it was fixed by tricking the ECU (by voltage clamping via the 02 sensor wire) into going into open loop sooner.

Anywho, for example Lower voltages .32V was lean and in closed loop and .47V stoich and in open loop, I could see the transition from lower to higher voltage happening @ 4500rpm. Not saying that's the correct voltages for the bike but you get the idea.

Obviously having a multimeter attached while the bike is moving on the road is going to be somewhat difficult, so you have three choices; do it on a dyno or rig up some additional wiring from the 02 sensor/ecu wire and attach to the multimeter whilst bike is moving on the road or just get the tuner to work it out, a reputable tuner should be able to work it out.

That will probably be my one and only tech contribution to KSRC for 2012, thank you come again.

I do, optimiser suks and waste ya money if you will, I did that's all.

Thanks for that guys i have asked Dynojet to sus it out for me i will let you know when i hear back. Might just have to sort it out at the Tuners. On the 2011-2012 10's closed loop is only effective between 4-6th gear and from 0-20% throttle so that's where i would need to look and work out its transition which should be about 7500-8500rpm (on the euro Zx-10 it is 7500pm) "but are ours euros ?? might just have to play. Without Autotune it needs to be set to 8% richer according to dynojet. As in they say to highlight that range and input 8 and it will try to acheive 13.6:1 AFR.

I'll let you know what happens when i get it right or stuff it up and the tuner fixes it

fuck me the 2011 ZX10R must be a bucket of puss straight from the showroom floor if you have to do all this sort of rooting around just to get it working properly....

Hi Gosling..

Well you really dont have to go to all of this trouble..!! I am running my 11' ZX10R race bike with a Graves Motorsports exhaust (Previously an M4 3/4 Exhaust) with the o2 sensor connected running the stock ECU and the stock air filter and I am making it to 285kph 'real gps' speed at the island (on a good day) and it's still pulling too hard for me to handle !!

Sometimes you really dont have to do too much as these bikes are so powerful as it is.. after many years at the track I have learnt that top speed and lap times come when you concentrate on spending money on good suspension and good rubber

I also have the gearing changed, quickshifter etc just to help out as well, but the bike is a powerhouse.. I have gotten it down to 45's now, but it can go a lot quicker than that

Macca

Maccarocks wrote:Hi Gosling..

Well you really dont have to go to all of this trouble..!! I am running my 11' ZX10R race bike with a Graves Motorsports exhaust (Previously an M4 3/4 Exhaust) with the o2 sensor connected running the stock ECU and the stock air filter and I am making it to 285kph 'real gps' speed at the island (on a good day) and it's still pulling too hard for me to handle !!

Sometimes you really dont have to do too much as these bikes are so powerful as it is.. after many years at the track I have learnt that top speed and lap times come when you concentrate on spending money on good suspension and good rubber

I also have the gearing changed, quickshifter etc just to help out as well, but the bike is a powerhouse.. I have gotten it down to 45's now, but it can go a lot quicker than that

Macca

thanks Macca - that is exactly what I was hoping someone would say. These bikes make more hp than 99% of the numpties out there can possibly use, but the amount of .....stuff.....discussed to make them go better and all the problems that subsequently arise - methinks most of this is just a pissing contest to see who has the most mods, rather than an actual exercise in improving power delivery because you *have* to.

A lot like how Wattie can lap EC on a basically bog-stock Gumby quicker than half the field who have all spent thousands on bullshit like aftermarket ECU's and PC5's and fuck-knows what else - all a pointless exercise in spending money. It has made those nobs no quicker at all.

Once you can outride the stock power delivery - then start spending money to make it better. Until then don't bother.

Spoken like a true genius Gos'..!!

We are both on the same page. I found the quickshifter did help me out, but the rest is basically stock..!!

Removing the cat box and all that crap is a given, slip on is perfect for this model as the headers are already titanium and where designed with pro-stock racing in mind.. and that's it for me...

The rear stock suspension was crap when pushed at the track, the front was much better than the 08 model, but fitting the TTX and Ohlins linear fork springs, that's where my lap times started dropping and my tyre wear got much better. Understand this mix and you can go much faster...

I agree with you totally mate..

There is a lot to be said for getting the simple things right.

The best mods I ever did to the 12 were getting the suspension and brakes sorted. Even now the Nissins I picked up from the Hoff have yet to be fitted, but I am sure they will be an improvement over the Tokicos. The suspension work was worth far more than any engine mod. The 12 has some basics - yes it had to have a PC3 because it has a modified system with no cat - but the mapping only needed to be done 'once' and that was it. Removed secondary butterflies because that actually did give me a lot more instant oomph when passing semi-trailers with just a roll-on of the throttle instead of bashing down a gear or 2. Got some good air filters - and thats about it really.

I just think personally that fucking around endlessly trying to make up a couple of percent here and there between certain rpm ranges in certain gears - is just a total WOFTAM for road use. Sure - if the bike is being ridden in the aussie SBK series or FX or whatever and the rider needs to chase every poofteenth of a millifart to win - I have no problems with this at all. But for road bikes its just a massive wank.