Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Just wondering who has changed there gearing, i think standard is 17/40.... Is it worth doing?????

i was going to before i wrote it off and from everyone I spoke to that has done it advises to jump 2 in the rear for a bit more low down without loosing the cruisabilty on the slab

If standard is 17/40 ratio = 2.35:1

16/40 ratio = 2.5:1

17/42 ratio = 2.47:1

I was looking at 16:39 ratio = 2.43:1

My thinking is my ratio is almost half way between 16/40 and 17/40, where 2 up at the back is very close to 16/40. Also, but going down a tooth at both ends reduces weight and uses a shorter chain. Win win in my world.

My chain has only done 12,000km, so not quiet ready for changing but will try this ratio when I do replace it.

I've got a 16t front I'll be mounting shortly ; a lot cheaper than getting rear sprox, and using the standard chain will give a slightly longer wheelbase.

Eventually, when the standard chain gets tired, I'll go the 520 conversion, and have plenty of fronts and rears to experiement with when the time comes.

Cheers,
Brian

I got a 520 conversion kit a little while ago, -1F and +3R.

Fark me what a difference it made... Can't pull the 168 on the limiter in first gear anymore (but that was kinda the reason to alter the gearing.
It's now quite capable of doing clutchless standups in 5th gear (haven't tried 6th yet). absolutely love the gearing though... actually goes through the gearbox closer to a 600 On the highway i think she's picked up about 900rpm @ 100kph.

For those who aren't sure. going -1F is equivalent to going +3 rear.

Definitely recommend dropping back the gearing (maybe not as extreme) but at least a little bit.

It'll bring a smile to your dial

Dr Phill wrote:I got a 520 conversion kit a little while ago, -1F and +3R.

Fark me what a difference it made... Can't pull the 168 on the limiter in first gear anymore (but that was kinda the reason to alter the gearing.
It's now quite capable of doing clutchless standups in 5th gear (haven't tried 6th yet). absolutely love the gearing though... actually goes through the gearbox closer to a 600 On the highway i think she's picked up about 900rpm @ 100kph.

For those who aren't sure. going -1F is equivalent to going +3 rear.

Definitely recommend dropping back the gearing (maybe not as extreme) but at least a little bit.

It'll bring a smile to your dial

wow that does sound pretty crazy

I went -1 on the front on the track bike for EC. Happy with the result and would do it if it was a road bike also.

Also went -1 on the front. Happy with the change along with a TRE has made down low usable!

got the red key yet Brad???

I went one done on the front of my Bug and made a nice difference without losing the top end. about 5000rpm for 110km/h true speed

I have -1 on the front and +2 on the rear of the crim race bike and great out the gas out of the corners however the tires dont like it as much. I find Dr Phill's claim of 9000rpm at 100km/h alittle hard to believe though considering mine is only one tooth shy in the rear of his gearing and no where near as agressive.

Think you better read Phil's response again Blurr. (On the highway i think she's picked up about 900rpm @ 100kph)

Wardy wrote:Think you better read Phil's response again Blurr. (On the highway i think she's picked up about 900rpm @ 100kph)

my bad I did miss read now about those clutchless wheelies in 5th

how many of you have changed the sprokets on bikes they ride on the road? the bottom end of the 10 is pretty weak, but not terrible becuase it still has plenty of horse power down there, but will doing this make my bike too crazy to ride around normally? Will it be ripping monos off every traffic light?

I droped one tooth at the front of my 0810r and i wouldnt live without it now. Not crazy but noticable increase in acceleration from down low. Wheelies are easier but not uncontrolable (for some ). I usually short shift first in trafiic anyway.

oh and I have a quick action throttle which doesnt add any concern either