Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

had jet kit fitted and tuned at LAE racing

97 zx6r , bmc, dynojet kit, akra titamium zorst

the results are 98(hp)
and 46.3(ft-lbs)

are these high low or normal readings and does n e one know wat dyno alex runs?

regards,

pat.

98Ponies At the Wheel is a Bloody respectable Number from an early 6r Pat. I'm not sure what dyno Alex runs but it's Realistic imho. I've had "tiggr" done there (after Wacol Dyno bikes did it) & seens Kevs 12r done a few times & If anything a it reads a few % points low.

That sounds about right to me....

I had a honda CBR600F3 (98) and at the time they were the supersports winners.... After K&N filter, Exhaust and header pipes, Dynojets... I was getting 101 ponies....

good to hear

now i'll post the graph tonight once i scan and try and get some suggestions about mid range flat spot dramas !

It's actually very healthy for an F model ZX6R. My race bike only gets a few more than that and thats a fully prepped SS engine, so I would be happy with that for sure.

Just remember though, the number is always a load of crap, with self corrections in it etc., The real use of a dyno is as a comparison when you make changes. Make a change, dyno run it, measure the differences. Did it improve-yes- on the right track, -no-going the wrong way then. And that's really all they are good for.

Most Dyno's are also inertia dyno's not brake dyno's. A brake dyno will place a load on the motor which simulates weight and wind resistance to gain a more accurate measure. A brake dyno really is more effective, even though an inertia dyno can still help make improvements, the brake dyno will show fuelling glitches more readily and closely replicate the reaction of the engine on the road.

Did he make changes or tune it for you??? What was the before figure if so?

the fig was 95.5hp

it bad dirty bmc pipe and he cleaned bmc , new plugs, fitted dynojet stage 1 kit and tunes

ozx6r wrote:the fig was 95.5hp

it bad dirty bmc pipe and he cleaned bmc , new plugs, fitted dynojet stage 1 kit and tunes

3 Hp increase is fantastic!! How did the graph look? did he get rid of the horribly typical flat spot?

I don't reckon my racer would be making any more than that really. It's certainly a healthy motor isn't it!!

the graph is crap it went in really to get the flat spot between 5 & 6 gone but its the only thing that didnt get fixed!

its fine flogging it up through the gears, it only really affects it if i am in a gear to high and try and open up the throttle.

so if comnig out of corner in 1 gear to high i am stuffed it coughs and splutters thru that range and then goes awesome again

think it might have something to do with the divider plate in the exaust that got hacked out to put a new link pipe and akra zorst

ozx6r wrote:the graph is crap it went in really to get the flat spot between 5 & 6 gone but its the only thing that didnt get fixed!

its fine flogging it up through the gears, it only really affects it if i am in a gear to high and try and open up the throttle.

so if comnig out of corner in 1 gear to high i am stuffed it coughs and splutters thru that range and then goes awesome again

think it might have something to do with the divider plate in the exaust that got hacked out to put a new link pipe and akra zorst

What needles are you running? We found one of the only solutions to getting them running right, apart from the correct main jet sizes, was to fit them with different needles. Cosway made mine, but I think Muzzy sell them still!

here is 1 of the print outs

did you say to the guys at LAE "hey, i would really like this flat spot fixed, this is why i brought it to you" ?

other than that, i would suggest going leaner on the needles till it clears up? thats usually the fix 9 times out of 10... to do that, take the slides out and theres and E-clip on each needle and notches that they go into, usually with a washer on either side of the clip. take the clip out and move it down a notch (towards the pointy end of the needle) and reassemble... then test ride

if the flat spot is better when cold but worse when the bike warms up, you need to take more fuel out. if its shocking when cold but better as it warms up, you need to go the other way and put more fuel in.

still, id be taking it back to LAE, cause unless it cost you a slab or two, i wouldnt be real happy with the result when the fix could be quite easy. the peak power figure sounds good, but midrange is perhaps the most important part of a bikes power band. it looks like your losing nearly 15hp in that dip, and that is a LOT!

[/rant]

SocialSecurity wrote:did you say to the guys at LAE "hey, i would really like this flat spot fixed, this is why i brought it to you" ?

other than that, i would suggest going leaner on the needles till it clears up? thats usually the fix 9 times out of 10... to do that, take the slides out and theres and E-clip on each needle and notches that they go into, usually with a washer on either side of the clip. take the clip out and move it down a notch (towards the pointy end of the needle) and reassemble... then test ride

Um, dude, that makes the needle run richer.

To lean out the main circuit, you move the clip *away* from the pointy end of the needle.

Concur on rich needle being the cause, though. 5,000rpm, where the power starts to drop, would be about where the slides start to lift on a bike with a 13,500rpm redline. Further, the power stays flat above 10,500rpm. Both point to a rich needle.

woops sorry, what IK said!!!! slip of the fingers


i was under the impression that needles had no real effect on top end, cause once you get to about 9k on a 13500rpm engine the slides are completely lifted and the needle no longer effecting things.... and that all fuelling up there is purely dependant on the main jet size?

oh and if your after an extra ponie or three, grab an ignition advance rotor... +4 degrees is ideal, gives it a hell of a lot more snap at any part throttle opening and just makes it a hell of a lot more fun about us$50 from overseas or about au$125 locally, takes about 20 minutes to change over with basic hand tools and no specialist knowledge... factory pro make them and so do muzzys AFAIK... and should be able to get a factory pro item most anywhere in australia, even kawa dealers usually stock them.

its best to run 95 octane to prevent pinging, and if you lose any performance then you need to go a little richer where ever its lacking, but its all worth it... would probably put you up to 100hp on that same dyno

SocialSecurity wrote:i was under the impression that needles had no real effect on top end, cause once you get to about 9k on a 13500rpm engine the slides are completely lifted and the needle no longer effecting things.... and that all fuelling up there is purely dependant on the main jet size?

Well, next time you have the airbox off, lift one of the slides with your finger. Even with the slide fully retracted, the bottom few milimetres of needle will still be inside the needle jet... if that wasn't the case, how would the needle find its way back in from full lift when you shut the throttle at high rpm?

Then, depending on clip position, that overlap between the needle and the needle jet at full lift is going to vary, no? The higher the clip, the greater the overlap and the more of the needle jet remains blocked by the needle at full lift, effectively leaning out the circuit slightly.

Full throttle, high revs, needle at full lift, you have the same situation as when the engine is running on the pilot circuit, before the needle's started to lift. The amount of fuel delivered to the engine depends on the jet size, the air bleed and, to provide variability, how hard the engine is drawing air through the carb body. So, you can have the needle at full lift and the engine breathing through the biggest possible hole, but there's still scope to vary the amount of fuel being drawn up from the float bowl.