fibreglassing

I finally got around to removing the headlight from the 6 and started to plan to fibre glass over them to create gap fillers. Taking damonz advice i cloth taped over them and am about to slap on the resin and fibreglass. I've never done this before so any suggestions on how many coats of resin and fibreglass? Will one be ok or would i need more?

Bunnings sold me the fibre glass kit but gave me a glazed look when i went back for a roller so i ended up getting a paint roller and ripped off the foam. That'll work right?

Cheers

Make sure you rough up the adjoining edges with sand paper. Even take to them with a stanly knife to give the fibre glass something to stick to when the resin dries.

I did about 4-5 layers of the cloth when doing my fairings.

I take it you have taped all the lense of the OEM headlight? FFS don't let any resin touch the lenses as it will attack it. Use a couple of layers of masking tape if you have to. Cover everywhere you don't want resin.
Next get yourself a couple of throw away coffee cups (cardboard and clean) mix only half of your resin at a ratio of about 2% with MEKP hardener. 100ml resin:half teaspoon hardener(catalyst), mix well with lolly stick (or old screw driver ).
Hopefully you have precut your glass to shape required.
Now brush resin on tape and lay glass on resin, always work the resin úp'through the glass, don't try to push it down. Work with a brush and you will see the emulsion binder start to breakdown in the glass (the fibres start to move independantly).
Lay another layer on and damp down with resin until saturated.
Work with brush, now you can consolidate with a brush well enough on a job like this with a brush.
The glass they normally give with kits is 450g so 3 layers will be adequate, a couple of mm.
Leave it to dry, preferably give it a bit of sunlight.
The next day strip it, then surface sand it with something like 80g, skim a bit of nikky in if wanted, sand again.
Finally if you want to mix a small amunt of resin and liberally apply to flow the surface smooth, allow to dry well and sand back with something slightly smoother, to give a prior primer finish.
Good luck and don't breath too many fumes, I makes you go all weird like Hoffy

hey thanks for the advice. i did pretty much what you said, then fucked it up, snapped the model off and got my mate to do it properly.

it took about 4 wild turkeys and fumes now all ive gotta do it paint it. (its still fucked)

its better to practice some glasswork first , on some old broken bits of fairing. This will give you a good idea of how the catalyst/resin ratio *works* , and how to work the glass mat with the mix to get a consistent finish.

Temperature makes a big difference - and it does take some practice to get glasswork correct ......but worth the effort when it all works well ....

This info may come in very handy soon

Have a big hole in the 9r tail where the pillion seat & brake light used to be that need filling

I guess I've been lucky then, every bit of major glasswork i've done was 100% right "first go". have you considered putting a light powdering of talc between the masking tape layers to help it split off when its time to remove it??

Quote - have you considered putting a light powdering of talc between the masking tape layers to help it split off when its time to remove it??