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over running possible clutch?

Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 3:57 pm
by Dyno
hey guys, i'm new to bikes so just going off what i know from cars

. i got a ZX7R 97' noticed this morning going to work if i give it a bit after chaging the gears it over rev (like clutch slipping) then drop to normal. my bike has only just click over 20,000kms which makes me think it can be the clutch. i knew the last owner and they never done burnouts or mono just rode pretty hard.
also motor rattles a fair bit but i've been told normal for a kawaka. but tappets due for adjust @ 20,000km???
cheers
Sean

Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 4:15 pm
by Strika
Normally valves are done at 12k and 24K etc etc on ZX7R's, so wouldn't hurt to get them checked.
Sounds like yr clutch is fried. Change the clutch plates while they have it apart hey!


Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 4:16 pm
by Duane
zx7r is not fuel injected. shims are due at 24,000 (but rarely need doing apparantly) but kwakkas should make a different scarey noise everytime you ride it hehe
umm.. as for the clutch, not sure buddy, sure your not just holding in the clutch too long ?? (or not letting it out far enough after changing gears when u get back on the gas?) anyways, change the oil that should make a huge difference.
anyways mate
hth

Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 4:51 pm
by jpbikeboy
Yep i'll go along with that. I'd change the oil first because if the previous bloke put car oil (friction modified) in it would make the clutch slip. if that doesn't work do the plates.

Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 4:57 pm
by Strika
jpbikeboy wrote:Yep i'll go along with that. I'd change the oil first because if the previous bloke put car oil (friction modified) in it would make the clutch slip. if that doesn't work do the plates.
Thats mostly crap. I have run and a friend still runs normal car oil in one of his bikes and has not had any clutch slip.
Changing the oil may stave off the inevitable for a short period, but London to a brick the friction plates are worn. Clutches just don't do that unless they are worn.
We always did valves at 12k on 7's. Especially if they are ridden hard. Kwaka valves are notoriously stretchy in the first 5000k's. from there they usually stay put though.

Err except F series ZX6's which pop the tops off regularly if revved!

Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 5:21 pm
by Deserteagle
It may be running Fully Synthetic oil and slipping. Trying Semi-Synthetic.
My clutch definitely grabs better when I changed my oil a few days with Semi Synthetic.

Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 6:51 pm
by chameleon
fucking oil debates!!!!! I just wish I could get the truth out of "SOME BASTARD" I hate the though of using something substandard and I hate the fact that 4L of motol costs $40-$50


Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 7:51 pm
by balanse
Clutch - could be overzealous adustment. Should not be worn out in 20,000 kms unless it came with a plow attachment.
Oil debate?? What oil debate, only one truth...if it aint seizing up then the oil is working.
BUT

personal preferences do get put forward like..
I keep bikes for a long time so use top shelf oil cause I also am the one who pulls em apart and puts em back together. If I can delay that then good.
If I know it's going to be mine for a short term then I could not give a f*ck. Typically stop short of car oil though.

Posted:
Fri Feb 24, 2006 8:46 pm
by Plaz
There is not Oil debate........it's your ride....if you wanna fill the sump with cooking oil, then thats up to you.
Me I go by what I trust and what I have seen used sucessfully....I always use a full synth Motorcycle Oil (Motul 5100 15W40).
Car oil does have friction modifiers....but I have never tried ussing it so I couldn't tell you if its good or bad.
As for the clutch...I would be pissed if it was shot at 20000km......any other symptoms?
My ZXR 750 I checked the shims every 12000km but only had them done when the bike hit 60000km( actually closer to 66thou km). If the bikes new to you get em checked it will ease your mind or you'll need them done.
I would say in general theough (and this took me a while to get used to) don't panic at every noise you hear, at the end of the day if it didn't make these noises it wouldn't be a true Klackasaki

Posted:
Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:52 pm
by Dyno
cheers for the help gents. not really worries about the noises, i'm a mechanic and i know what's a bad noise and what's a noise u just keep an eye on haha
as for the clutch i changed the oil only about 2-3k kms ago. can't remember the grand (don't have the net @ home so i can go check) but it's shell motorcycle oil. noticed when i let the clutch out the handle sticks for a second half way then release (if u understand that). just don''t understand a clutch to go at 20K km when it hasn't been doing mono's or anything. i ride it a bit hard in my books but i've only been riding for 3-4mths (techanically should be on a 250 but fuck that).
clutchs hard to do urself? i'm going to get a manual and see how i go. hopefully it won't break the bank


Posted:
Sun Feb 26, 2006 7:50 am
by MickLC
Your clutch basket could be a bit worn and the plates are sticking in the grooves for a few seconds. You can pull it out with the plates and give it a gentle file to smooth the fingers on the basket off.
I did this on my old 9 and it transformed the clutch action.

Posted:
Sun Feb 26, 2006 1:37 pm
by jpbikeboy
jpbikeboy wrote:
Yep i'll go along with that. I'd change the oil first because if the previous bloke put car oil (friction modified) in it would make the clutch slip. if that doesn't work do the plates.
strika replied:
Thats mostly crap. I have run and a friend still runs normal car oil in one of his bikes and has not had any clutch slip.
I'd be interested to know what car oil you're running. There are some exceptions eg Mobil1. If i put any friction modified oil in at all the clutch slips, then change the oil back and it doesn't. I have friend who's official title is an 'oil technician' who can explain this better if you want. from what i understand, the friction modifiers eg teflon, reduce friction on moving parts, which is great for your motor, but not great for your clutch.....

Posted:
Sun Feb 26, 2006 5:21 pm
by Johnnie5
Dyno wrote:cheers for the help gents. not really worries about the noises, i'm a mechanic and i know what's a bad noise and what's a noise u just keep an eye on haha
as for the clutch i changed the oil only about 2-3k kms ago. can't remember the grand (don't have the net @ home so i can go check) but it's shell motorcycle oil. noticed when i let the clutch out the handle sticks for a second half way then release (if u understand that). just don''t understand a clutch to go at 20K km when it hasn't been doing mono's or anything. i ride it a bit hard in my books but i've only been riding for 3-4mths (techanically should be on a 250 but fuck that).
clutchs hard to do urself? i'm going to get a manual and see how i go. hopefully it won't break the bank

the lever sticks ?
this is a cable clutch i would assume ? time to lube the cable and all points and check from there

Posted:
Sun Feb 26, 2006 5:25 pm
by I-K
Nup. ZX7's, like ZXR750's and ZX-9R-B's, which all share the same basic engine architecture, all have hydraulic clutches.

Posted:
Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:15 pm
by Bionic
IF it feals the clutch leaver isn't returning properly. Try bleeding your clutch.