Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

yes i know....

instead of getting a locksmith to make me a new key I've decided to have a go at hotwiring my project ZX6R racer.

So far it makes all the appropriate noises and the dash lights up and does its diagnostic but when i hit the start button it cranks over but the little red fuel injection light under the neutral light flashes.

Thoughts??

i hope the FI circuit doen't need a specific resistance thru the ign switch to power up....grrrrrrrr!!!!

now where did i leave my flathead screwdriver and hammer.....

and the manual says ???? about flashing FI light ?

the owners manual that came with my other Zx6R doesn't say shit about the FI warning light, just that its there....

get into the ignition block with a multimeter & a length of wire.

Did this model have an exhaust valve???????? If so and it has an a/mkt pipe, that could be the cause.?????

I doubt it is a resistance issue, as if it were I doubt if you would get any action at all, let alone an FI light warning.

If its the same as the 10, the FI light is the engine immobiliser light. It flashes when immobilised......

MadKaw wrote:If its the same as the 10, the FI light is the engine immobiliser light. It flashes when immobilised......

We wnet down this road a couple of nites back Madkaw! This model didn't have the security codes in the keys, so no immobiliser! I tink???

Mine has ben known to flash on odd occaisoins i just turn the key off and back on and it goes agian no worries can be things like the connection to the sensor on the airbox is a bit loose you ave to count the flashes in long and short to make sense of it.

The 03/04 doesnt have a exhaust valve as such.

Glen you may need to post some of theis stuff on http://www.kawiforums.com because we only had a realitvley few of those 6rs here but theres a gazillion of them over in the states.

Got a wiring diagram? I would nearly bet there is a resistor in the ignition switch that the ECU needs to "see". If so it'll just be a matter of soldering a resistor across those two wires.

Is there a built in dealer mode that will get one of the dash displays to throw a code like all FI Suzuki's have? Once you have the code you have the exact reason for the light flashing.

i.e C42 = ignition switch for my bike.

your on the money steve!!

i posted in kawiforums and had an answer in minutes, a 100ohm resistor connected to the grey wire to drop the voltage to the ECU.

I was off to locksmith in morning but now I'm off to DICKSMITH!!


ooooooh i hope this works!!

varden wrote:yes i know....

instead of getting a locksmith to make me a new key I've decided to have a go at hotwiring my project ZX6R racer.

So far it makes all the appropriate noises and the dash lights up and does its diagnostic but when i hit the start button it cranks over but the little red fuel injection light under the neutral light flashes.

Thoughts??

i hope the FI circuit doen't need a specific resistance thru the ign switch to power up....grrrrrrrr!!!!

now where did i leave my flathead screwdriver and hammer.....

Hey Varden, I have the service/maintenance manual as a PDF.... that lists the meaning of those lights and stuff.... (apparently)....

It is a warning of some sort, and you can probably fix it by "resetting" the error count...

If you want the manual, I can send it to you, PM me... (sorry its at work, will be there in an hour or so)...

Thanks stereo but i got manual off bob yesterday and its good

Well i went to dicksmiths today....no 0.125 watt 100 ohm resistors, try this 5 watt one...didn't work.

Called Jaycar, nope don't have any, referered me to RS Components (radioshack). Turned up, told em what i wanted, no worries 45cents for 10 pack.

Rushed home to fit one, didn't work...

Popped inspection plate off back of ign, resistor is different....took unit back to RS, oh thats a metal shielded precision 1% tolerance blah blah blah resistor. $15 for a 5 pack shipped from Sydney overnight, we'll call you in morning when they turn up.

Bloody hell i'm impatient, i wanted that bike running and all the rest of my parts on order by now.

Have you measured the one in the switch to see how close it is to 100ohm? The wattage and type shouldn't be critical, any one of the 100 ohm ones you tried should work.

Any luck getting into dealer mode to see what the eaxct code is?

Steve_TLS wrote:Have you measured the one in the switch to see how close it is to 100ohm? The wattage and type shouldn't be critical, any one of the 100 ohm ones you tried should work...

The tolerance will be critical in this application - a 10% tolerance (brown? band) could be 90 or 110 ohms......5% tolerance (silver band) is closer, but an ECU is probably expecting an *exact* signal of 100ohm, so 1% tolerance would be ideal.......

sorry, I am an electronics *anorak* from way back......

Varden - do the very best job you can when soldering the resistor into the circuit - any bad solder joints can add additional resistance to a circuit...

Maybe the tolerance is critical here. But I know my bike will accept from 100 to 180 and not fault, I can't tell you about the lower tolerance though.