Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Posted: **Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:24 pm**

Anyone ever get a dyno jet kit?

Mine came with a small bottle of glue!.. I've never used glue befoe in a carby so...what are you ment to do with it??????

(Sniff it.. put the carbies back to gether and your so out of it you dunno if the bike runs better???)

Posted: **Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:27 pm**

i woulda thought all those petrol fumes would have been enuff :lol:

how much the kit cost you? i'm thinking of having a crack at that myself, cant work out my little 4krpm splutter

Posted: **Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:08 pm**

I found out what the glues for....went to the dynojet web site and found the instructions.

The kit cost $224.....I dunno whether thats a good price or not....maybe someone can tell me.

Posted: **Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:37 pm**

get a can of carby cleaner and squirt some in your eye that will keep ya busy for a hour....could sniff some to and even clean the carby with it.

Posted: **Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:10 pm**

carbs are clean as a whistle and i've adjusted everything as best i can. its sweet as everywhere in the range except goddamn 4krpm on cruise

(flys through it no troubles going hell bent).

$220 sounds ok, thats mains, idles, needles the whole jigger eh?

Posted: **Sat Jan 21, 2006 8:28 am**

there are a list of kits you can get on Dynojets site:

http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/motorcycle/kawasaki.php

(or dynojet home for the other lesser brands of bike

..
http://www.dynojet.com/ )

4 main jets DJ126, 4 main jets DJ130, 4 fuel needles DNO228, 8 adjusting washers DW0001, 4 E-clips DE0001, 4 side springs DSP005, Glue DA0001,
4 main air correctors DC0201, Tool (which include nose hair scissors and steak knives) DT001.

The kit I got is E2145.001 and is for a 1991-92 ZXR750 stage 1 which is for midly tuned machines, with stock or K&N fliter. May also be used with good aftermarket exhaust system.

What I was interested in was if there was a kit for a higher level of development...like this is a stage one and the part number is E2145.001, so what's in the stage 2 kits and what's it's part number?

The only other thing to be aware of is the kit I got is designated for 1991-92 Kawasaki ZXR750 STage 1 EUROPEAN MODELS ONLY whereas the Dynojet site lists only a kit number of 2145.002 1991-92 Kawasaki ZX7 stage 1 U.S. MODELS ONLY. So I dunno if there is a European site somewhere where you can search part numbers and kits.

Just btw I got this kit thru a place called OCD racing but initially I was told by another place that I couldn't get a kit for this bike.

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2006 8:55 am**

coco, give mick hone suzuki in box hill a call, they are the agent for factory pro which have one of if not the best reputation for jet kits and tuning around.... their after sale support is second to none, and theres plenty of info on their website.... price should be roughly the same... tho you could probably get one straight from the states and it would end up costing about 160 delivered

grab a timing advancer too while yer at it :wink:

check out http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodk51.html

the only thing that affects low throttle cruise ratios is the pilot screws... have you taken them all the way out or in? if you have run out of adjustment on the pilots then just buy the next size of pilot jets, probably cost 3-4 bucks each... much cheaper than a jetkit, which doesnt always include pilots (dont always need to change them)

can you give the bike full throttle from 2-3k? or does the bike die in the arse and then suddenly come good at like 4k (like geenos VL when it hits boost) ? the float height can affect the pilot circuit a little, thats why you gotta get the float height right first... and the needles before that, and the mains before that...

read this a few times: http://66.47.68.116/tech/carbtune,CV,hi ... gines.html :wink:

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:03 am**

4. Idle and low rpm cruise
Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)

Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation.

Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level (but, you've "fixed" the fuel level in Step 3 - which you have already done!) AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.

If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.

Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect high-rpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.

NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.

NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:07 am**

yeah, i've read up on that thing a few times. its really a bit of a mystery to me, maybe someone with a bit more experience would be able to sort it, but this is my first shot at carbs

everything but 4k cruise seems fine, maybe even a little rich (but better that way than the other). the bike was WAY lean below 5k and had this same problem at just about any RPM below that. fiddled with the floats and idle and it feels sweet for the most part and has no probs at all when hammering up, but 4k just seems to be where i sit when cruising at 80

thinking i might just change my gearing and kill my economy even more :lol:

easier than stuffing around with carbs any day....

Posted: **Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:19 am**

lol true that... tho the carbs on the 9R are only too easy to work on... real easy to get on and off too :wink:

you might be able to get a stubby screwdriver in to the pilot mixture screws without pulling the carbys off, just the tank maybe... if you can, try give em a half turn richer till it runs good... sounds like a lean problem on cruise if its spluttering... rich just makes its a bit dull.. but like you say its better to be rich than lean

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:41 am**

GPX750 carbies are a bugger to work on so im envious. Tonight / tomorrow night i anticipate checking the fuel levels, and then arsing about for a hour or so to get the carbies out.

Once i've done that i need to recheck the float levels to see how far off "stock" they are (i could have sworn i set them up correctly), and i think lower the float level about 1-1.5mm or so.

THEN theres putting then back in, ugh. Lucky bastards.

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:45 am**

btw, a good tuning guide is at http://users.adelphia.net/~zrx11/techhtml/jet.html from the symptoms described my bike is almost perfect, but needs a float adjustment. i'll be possibly re-checking it again tonight, or just dicking with the carbies and seeing what happens afterwards..

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:03 am**

thats a complete rip off of the guide that i posted

just remember everythings gotta be done in the order the guide says to... if your needles aint quite perfectly set and you adjust the float level to compensate, the midrange might get a *little* better but the bottom end will never be perfect... you'll end up chasing your tail

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:29 am**

tho you could probably get one straight from the states and it would end up costing about 160 delivered

Confirm that ... its what I did.

The Dynojet kit I got for the ZRX contained enough jets etc. for *both* level 1 and 2 tuning.

Instructions specified using different return springs, needles and jets (all supplied) for bikes with standard airbox, no engine mods & aftermarket exhausts (stage 1) vs cutaway airbox or pods engine mods and am exhaust (stage 2).

ZRX carbs are also a pain to get on and off (I hate doing carbs soooo much).
To adjust the air screws I bought a jewellers screwdriver set and cut the biggest flat blade in half.

Happy with the Dynojet.

Posted: **Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:50 am**

nice

my factory kit came with replacement diaphragm springs (for better throttle response), new adjustable needles, clips and washers for the needles, and sets of 150, 152, 158, 160, 162, and 165 mains ...

thing is the kit expected you to have the stock 155 jets, but some ass hat had replaced mine with 142's at some stage (thus is had NO top end) and wouldnt you know it, 155 turned out to be ideal for my setup :evil:

so i had to go and buy a few jets for about $4 each

comes with pretty good instructions and recommended settings, if you have a stock pipe, a slip on, or a full system... if you have a stock air filter, de-meshed air filter, or a K&N or BMC filter... or if you have used a timing advancer...

so i guess you could say its a fairly complete kit for any stage of tuning... tho i could have got away without it had i just chucked in a set of stock 155's and just lowered the fuel level a little :evil:

98-99 9R carbs are so easy to work with tho... can drop the bowls without taking the carbs off the bike, so you can also change main jets in about 20 minutes.. the diaphragm covers come off easily just by taking the tank and airbox off, so you can adjust needle height easily too

only have to take the carbs off to adjust float height and pilot screws