What brand brake pads? And which shop?

[Stereo]

Im looking for a place that can replace my brake pads on Sat Morning...

What is a good pad to go for? Usually the factory ones are pretty cruddy compared to some of the compound ones...

Im not sure how much they cost, but I would rather get decent pads that dont fade than crappy ones... brakes are pretty important to me...

[Smitty]

mate

2 brands I have used on bikes (apart from the Kwaka ones)
are SBS and EBC
Both are about the same I have found but EBC are a bit more $
out of the pocket
The SBS ones on my 7fiddy work around town and at the
end of the main straight at Phillip Island.... (EBC likewise)

The kwaka ones are ok but tend to be dearer than just about
all others..performance wise, the ones I have used
have been fine


my 2c

cheers

[Tack]

... brakes are pretty important to me...

Why?????..............................they only slow you down...think how much faster you can go if you didn't use them!


Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question...I've gotta get some too so I'm interested to see what people here say.

Just by way of comment on brake pads...just to see what the status quo is like with bikes.....I used to buy race brake pads for my race car ($1600 set...they were Pagids to fit Brembo's)(i have one pair for sale btw...lol...if anyone is interested in a set of rear brembos (same as fitted to V8 supercars)..$1200 for the pair). The method used in the selection was temperature range (what temperature the disc got to when used) and type of racing (i.e. sprint 10 or 15 laps or endurance etc).

Basically, you either ran a pyrometer with a data logger to read disc temperatures or you used paint on the disc that changed colour when a temperature was reached. This gave you temperature range. BTW temperatures were affected by the type of track. Any circuit with long straights and high speeds and big braking into a slow corners generated huge temperatures eg Eastern Creek, Calder, Bathurst, Sandown. Other tracks generated high temps (Braking on the straights but not the same peak temps like the others do) but maintained temps around the track and didn't allow much cooling because of constant use eg Winton, Wakefield Park etc.

As far as compounds, selection was based on how long you had to make them last which then affected the coeffecient of friction (Mu). Mu (pronounced muooo) is the unit of measure of the coefficient of friction. Basically like tyres, the harder you get the longer it lasts but the less the Mu is and the less bite and ultimate braking power i.e. you have to brake earlier cause you won't stop.

So when you bought racing Pagids you selected them by choosing temperature range and Mu. This way you are sure to get the best brake performance. What is most interesting is Mu range...that is what the coefficient of friction is like when the pad is cold as to when its hot. If the pad has a bad Mu when cold the thing won't work but when it gets hot (or into it's operating temp range) it might throw you over the handle bars. Pretty crap sort of pad that would be but it would be rare to find something like that!

It is a waste of time (and money) to buy a set of race pads if you can't get them up to temp (like use them on the road unless you happen to be braking from 260km/h into roud abouts or something)......or on the other hand ...if you get a set that you overheat...

anyway, I think I've said enough...Neka will see this and tell me that I'm a wanker again and stop being sceintist or something and tell me to "just ride the friggin bike". I apologise in advance.

[Stereo]

I could save nekka time if you want hehe

[javaman]

That reminds me. Coming down from one of the mountain near Eildon-Jamieson (heaps of bends), I used the rear brake alot since there was unseen gravel around. After about 20 minutes doing this the rear brake failed so I stopped, and it made crackling sounds, apparently overheated !!

After riding again (using front brakes this time), the rear brake cooled and it worked again.

What is at fault here? Bad pad quality or brake oil could not handle the heat?

[Stereo]

That reminds me. Coming down from one of the mountain near Eildon-Jamieson (heaps of bends), I used the rear brake alot since there was unseen gravel around. After about 20 minutes doing this the rear brake failed so I stopped, and it made crackling sounds, apparently overheated !!

After riding again (using front brakes this time), the rear brake cooled and it worked again.

What is at fault here? Bad pad quality or brake oil could not handle the heat?

nah, its the pads overheating...... thats what I was talking about when I said "fade"... brakes can fade if they get too hot....

[mike-s]

ferodo make some good pads. got them on the front of the gpx. stop well when the brakes are actually bled correctly .

[Barrabob]

when making enquirys at the dealers they said ferodo but I am also inclined to do trackdays and would have said goodridge ones are the go, the last dude i had coaching me at a trackday said brakes are over rated anyway and i should stop using them if i want to go faster.

I would say ferodos on the back and goodridge onthe front but enquire as to what chews up the roters the least too.

[mike-s]

In which case the material the pads are made out of are more important than the brand. Sintered metal stops more effectively, but as it has a much more effective bite it will wear away at soft discs quite quickly. The common material for brake pads for softer discs is "ceramic composite"

http://www.federal-mogul.com/images/fer ... de_eng.pdf

[Smitty]

when making enquirys at the dealers they said ferodo but I am also inclined to do trackdays and would have said goodridge ones are the go, ...snip

that interesting... I know Goodridge make brake components
..braided lines fittings master cylinders etc

did not know they made the friction components...

on here
you learn sumfing every day

[aardvark]

I bought a set of SBS pads once. Wore through them in under 1,000 kays and scored my discs! I will NEVER buy SBS pads again.

If you can afford them, buy the OEM pads. They last forever and offer good feel at the lever.

[HemiDuty]

For the track I can recommend the Goodridge RGH compound pads. Bloody strong, but I do not expect them to last a long time. Even when the lever starts getting soft and squishy, the pads still pull up real hard.

[Barrabob]

Yeh goodridge make pads and you can order them from here

http://www.johnstamnas.com/ just depends what you want to spend and what you envisige your going to do.

I believe i was told the rgh racepads are a bit easier on your disks cause kawasaki want 750 dollars a pair for them and i would rather replace pads.

[Nanna10r]

"Mick the Tyre Magician" was gunna whack a set of Goodridges in the front of "tiggr" at 27ooo ks, but i had to wait a coupla days for them too arrive (which i didnt have before the Tiggr roadtrip in June) so he sold me a set of Goldfren Sintered metals for $60. Strutto helped me fit them up (easy as) only took an hour an a half & we cleaned all components while they were apart.
They work pretty well, I havent had any fading even with braided lines & i have giving them a flogging, especially on the PI snowie Trip, I also use more front brake then most as i tend to square corners off more then most people i've ridden with. The best bit is i put the oem crome shims back in with the goldfrens & they make this really cool whirring sound when i'm really on the anchors. Wear rate is ok & discs still are.nt showing significant wear after 42ooo ks.
Cheers Brett
PS Andy, short firm use of the brake mate, never drag the brake lever when your going through tight stuff especially down hill. Less pressure for longer periods will heat them more then short Firm use.

[mrmina]

mate sbs is what i used and its good. $35 for rear and double for the front.

got it from my local. Bike's Plus