Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Ok.... Have done oil change and plugs and brake pads will be this weekend . Then the plan is to do carburettor balancing and Shimming.

Questions are:

1. Where can I buy the carb balancing device (ones with the mercury in it) ? How much do you reckon?

2. Where can I buy the replacement shims ? Do dealers like Brighton kawa sell them ?

Other equipments such as micrometers, torque wrench etc. seems common enough in repco/autobarn/supercheap auto I think...

http://www.carbtune.com/index.html
Is one of the better carby balancing gadgets (by all reports), no mercury... Fairly sure I've seen these advertised here in aus too.
One of the guys here at work also has an electronic one he picked up from a BMW dealer which he swears by (I think he paid about $150 for it) but I haven't used either of these (yet)...

Fairly sure you'd be able to buy shims from any Kawa dealer - They use them when they do services, so they sure as hell have them

Hope that helps.
Russell.

Russell wrote:Fairly sure you'd be able to buy shims from any Kawa dealer - They use them when they do services, so they sure as hell have them

Unless they are Bill's in adelaide...

andy there's a real easy way of balancint the carbs without the guage.

my 250 was running like shit and backfiring. did it the easy way and it was all fixed.

mrmina wrote:andy there's a real easy way of balancint the carbs without the guage.
my 250 was running like shit and backfiring. did it the easy way and it was all fixed.

yep
while engine is running
suck on carbys ..and adjust until you feel all are the same

mind you
this method only works with someone who is more than 6'19" tall
or your rego plate says MRMINA

mrmina wrote:andy there's a real easy way of balancint the carbs without the guage.

I shudder to think

Java, you'll have to let us know how you go doing these things to the girl. My brake pads are due as well (squeaking like crazy), and those look easy enough....

Yankee wrote:Java, you'll have to let us know how you go doing these things to the girl. My brake pads are due as well (squeaking like crazy), and those look easy enough....

Pad changes are very easy. But beomes hard to do properly since the caliper has been pushed out so long and gets dirty on the outside. So I will disassemble the whole thing, clean them and reinstall. Should be ok and I'll let you know. The rear pads cost me $45.

seriously...brake pads are a piece of piss....2 beers & 30min & u should have it all done....well 30min per pad, so maybe allow 30min for just the rear, and an hour for all 3 should cover it (once u got all tools there at the ready, and uve fuked it up & fixed it a few times u get real good...lol)

javaman wrote:Pad changes are very easy. But beomes hard to do properly since the caliper has been pushed out so long and gets dirty on the outside. So I will disassemble the whole thing, clean them and reinstall. Should be ok and I'll let you know. The rear pads cost me $45.

Andy
I don't see why you have to dismantle the calipers
unless the pistons are stuck
Bike caliper pistons are stainless steel (usually) and should only need a wipe
over, before you push them in to fit the new pads
The only other usual reason for dismantling is if the pistons seals are
damaged or leaking

cheers

i don't think i'll ever have to replace the rear pads! but fronts are due, and bugger dismantleing and cleaning all the bits.... i'll do as smitty says!!
i'm gunna give "goldfren" pads a try.... what did you get Java?

Well, done spark plugs changes, cleaning up, adjustmens, and rear brake.

Dramas:

Plugs hole are reallly deep and I needed to go to supercheap auto to get a longish tool.

Hex bolts on rear brake are overtightened. After bending my L-hex key had again to go to supercheap auto to get a shock-mounted hex key. Bit too big so had to grind it by hand

But from now on all should be smooth . The rear brake was really easy once off. No need to disasamble, just clean it using brush and petrol and all ok

yankee it is worth while popping out the pistons and cleaning them up before you stick it all back together, if it goes back together clean it wont have a sticking caliper 3000kms down the track and you definitly have new fluid through the whole system that way.

beryl wrote:snip.. and you definitly have new fluid through the whole system that way.

as beryl says
everytime you swap pads
flush and bleed the brake fluid..its a must do!