Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

what road parts can i take off the zx7r?
it cant be road registered, so i figure i may as well take as much road gear off it as possible.
keep in mind i dont know what im doing with electronics.

left side switch block, tail light assembly/fender, front lights, indicators side stand (only if you have race stands), aside from that the wiring loom can be minimised by taking all the wiring out to all the things you just removed

should weigh it all at the end and see how much it comes to

ok , ive done all that except for the switch block. and i DO have race stands, so that may be another option.
what about those gigantic water bottles under the ram air intakes?

You talking the overflow bottles? If so you can probably ditch them for something smaller. maybe wait till some of the guys who have raced them pop in. I'd leave the sidestand on unless you're racing, otherwise it's a pain in the arse when you stop unless you've got a pit crew handy

98ninja wrote:ok , ive done all that except for the switch block. and i DO have race stands, so that may be another option.
what about those gigantic water bottles under the ram air intakes?

yeap ditch those resinator boxes, but make sure that you plug them up once you do. you can actually get race intakes they are just straight through ducts, it should increase the intake noise as well

Yo can also ditch all of the plastics under the tail as well and just mount any electronics to the sub frame. I would bother with removing wiring at this stage as I know that it is a good loom in that bike and the less you mess about with them the better, just tape up the plugs so that they dont rattle around.

Theres generally not too much more you can strip out unless you go for the full on race set up and then you would ditch the loom and make up a custom race on so that it has only the wires it needs, you could also replace the take with an alloy/carbon fibre, one if you could find one, obviously sell the road fairings and replace them with fibreglass race glass, etc, it just depends on how far you want to go to reduce weight.

I know people that have ground down the head of the bolts and nuts to reduce weight again it all comes down to how far you want to go.

Cheers

ok, ditched the plastics on the undertail, im gonna look at a lighter battery too. yeah ive had a quick look for the straight ram air ducts, a few places have them but no prices.
does anyone know someone who wants zx7 front and side fairings?
im thinking unless i can get a good price for them i may as well keep them on for now.
switch block to come off tommmorow. i have some cheap treaded tyres on the way too.

keep the side stand. only take it off before a race.

Awesome mate, be good to see her at the creek - booked in a day?

98ninja wrote: i have some cheap treaded tyres on the way too.

Hope not too cheap ...

nah mate havent booked in a day yet. im still recovering from getting hit by a truck on the pushey. itll be a little while yet.

When you remove the left switch block you may need to piggy back one of the terminals into itself or it won't start. It was eith the switch block or one of the instrument plugs, Can't remeber as it was years ago i did this to a 7. But this all based on my own personal experience.

Also if you want to remove the the ignition barrel you will need to put a resister in the ignition circuit. There have been several threads about it on here. try searching zx7 red wire or something. If that fails, PM Mitch.

No need to replace ram tubes straight up. Remove the resinators if you like and you can plug the hales with some stiff plastic sheeting and tape it up nicely, almost invisible.

If it's a VIC or TAS bike, remove the water circuit from the carbies as this steals big hp and was only added at the first service in those state as the carbs would freeze up in winter.

If you remove the rear plastic under tail, you can not ride in the wet. The rear wheel will spray the under side of the seat and drip water into the battery, fuse box, starter relay and generally kill the bike.

As for the gearing (People who don't know will argue this). Dropping one tooth on the front does not make the bike pull harder once moving. It is a very simple formula X amount of HP to accelerate X amount of mass at X rate. It is a matter of have the skill/ability to keep the engine in the right gear, at the rpm for the engine to make it's HP. But, the lower gearing will allow you to not use first gear on tight hairpins etc as there is a big gap in ratio between 1st and 2nd. People feel as though they go quicker with a lower drive raito, but the reality is that they are busier changing gears earlier as they have effectively shortened the ratios up. Having said that, i use -1 on front and +2 on rear purely the stay out of first and compress the ratios up. BUT use standard ratios on my road bikes.

As for the weight saving? it adds up to fuck all. 2-3kg at most. Where weight save makes a massive difference is unsprung mass, and spin mass. That means lighter rims, genuinely good tyres, wave discs, alloy sprokets etc etc.

Best bang for buck is to get some really good oil in the shocks and spend a bit to get the suspension set up. If you can exit a corner at a higher speed you be quicker before the next corner. Oh and you generally spend more time turning than going straight on a track anyway.

Like i said, just my experience. Some are sure to disagree

whilst i agree with some of what you say Matt, Gearing down will increase acceleration, no it wont improve power.

What is the point of a bike being able to do 300km/hr (with a 100km/hr tailwind) if it will only ever be able to do 250 max at the end of any straight in Australia?

by shortening the gearing this brings the gear changes closer together and will accelerate faster.

Wattie wrote:by shortening the gearing this brings the gear changes closer together and will accelerate faster.

Depends how quick you can change gears

From stationary you will get quicker aceleration to to power band in first gear, beyond that rpm it come down to purely hp:weight. If you find a lower final drive helps beyond this, you've changed gears too early. How often are you stationary in a lap of the island or the creek?

I struggled with this myself until i spoke with some drag racers i know. The proof is in the testing. To test, try 100km/h roll-ons. Time them as the sensation is misleading.