Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

so i think next weekend will be the weekend of converting the 6 into touring mode and there are a few things that i need some advice/help with... first of all I might need some help with the brake fluid, it seems like a two man job and my dad hasnt had hydraulic lines in ... well... forever, so i think i'll be needing help with that...

the second is drilling out the ignition... i can borrow a mates, drill but i know that there will be things i have to look out for. has anyone ever done this before? clutch cable cant be too hard (they've supplied a longer one) and im sure my dad can help me with that...

I also have to re-route the throttle cables but i had a sqizz this arvo and once its off the bars i should be able to feed it back through the left hand frame hole and across to the right hand one as per the diagram.

i also know i need to get some glue to re glue the left hand grip on to the new bars, anyone got any advice?

If anyone has any advice or a spare afternoon to come around and drink beers/yell at me/help me id really appreciate it

cheers
Owen

The ignition bolts are security bolts so will be a little fiddly to remove mate. last I did one, I drilled a small pilot hole and then used an easy out (reverse threaded drill bit essentially) to remove the bolt tubes.

All you need for the brake refill, is to get a one way valved bleeding tool. It can be done one manned, but it's a slow process!

For the grips, use grip glue. Or whatever rubber glue you have. If you have a compressor, use that with the thin air nozzle to remove and refit the grips. You blow air into the side of them, between the inside of the grip and the outside of the handlebars and it forms and air cushion which the grips just slide over like a finger in a bum!

Strika wrote: like a finger in a bum!

Glad you know what your doing.....

Strika wrote:.............. like a finger in a bum!

very descriptive Marty

Thanks for that Marty... I think sounds like the bolts could be a bi fiddly... I'll google a one way bleeding tool...

I've done the ignition security bolts, and as long as you have a drill press they're not too bad - I don't think I'd want to do them with a hand-held drill though.

I really don't think you need any fancy one-way bleeding tools to bleed your brakes - I use a piece of clear hose that fits over the bleed nipple and a bottle to dump the used fluid into. You simply squeeze the lever slightly, crack the bleed nipple, squeeze the lever then hold it squeezed until you've closed the bleed nipple. Repeat.

If you get stuck you know where to find me

thanks dave, might give you a bell... i dont have a drill press

the brakes are easy dude

when you own a zx10 you bleed your brakes after each trackday.

actually, i've now done 3 trackdays since i've bled my brakes... woohoo for Nascar fluid!

yeah robracer bled them at his workshop one time, but that was just draining and refilling at the same time, i could do that, but from empty lines, ive not even seen done before...

I just done mine from empty lines and let me tell you its shit.

Took me about 2 days to get to a point where i had some brake pressure. Still needs to be bled again to hopefully get them a little better.

wullieb1 wrote:I just done mine from empty lines and let me tell you its shit.

Took me about 2 days to get to a point where i had some brake pressure. Still needs to be bled again to hopefully get them a little better.

this is why im asking for advice/help i read your thread

Six Addict wrote:

wullieb1 wrote:I just done mine from empty lines and let me tell you its shit.

Took me about 2 days to get to a point where i had some brake pressure. Still needs to be bled again to hopefully get them a little better.

this is why im asking for advice/help i read your thread

Cool

Ended up getting help from my brothers in-law to get it to a level where i was happy to work alone lol.

Going to SuperCheap to get the hoses and stuff to bleed again soon.

the one way bleed tools are handy, often they consist of a metal chamber with a hole through it that goes to the hose, a ball bearing at the end of the hole and a captive spring pressing the ball against the hole, sealing it. By holding the ball bearingagainst the hole in the metal chamber, it is effectively doing the same thing as you closing the bleed nipple and stopping air being drawn back in. You are then free to squeeze the lever as many times as needed to bleed the brakes.

There are also plastic variations on them too, also there are other bleeders with y-joints in there to allow you to bleed multiple nipples on adjacent calipers (i.e. twin fronts) or on calipers that have two bleed points.

to save the arseache, yes they are worth it.

Six Addict wrote:Thanks for that Marty... I think sounds like the bolts could be a bi fiddly... I'll google a one way bleeding tool...

For one off use mate.... just nip to the local pet shop and get a 1 way filter for an aquarium air pump - you'll get the plastic tube from there too

Strika wrote:The ignition bolts are security bolts so will be a little fiddly to remove mate. last I did one, I drilled a small pilot hole and then used an easy out (reverse threaded drill bit essentially) to remove the bolt tubes.

All you need for the brake refill, is to get a one way valved bleeding tool. It can be done one manned, but it's a slow process!

For the grips, use grip glue. Or whatever rubber glue you have. If you have a compressor, use that with the thin air nozzle to remove and refit the grips. You blow air into the side of them, between the inside of the grip and the outside of the handlebars and it forms and air cushion which the grips just slide over like a finger in a bum!

Like Marty said Pinchy.

I got my ignition bolts out with an easy out. If you have to buy them they're about $75 a set. I've got a set if you want to borrow them though. Undo everything and flip it over up on the steering stem, brace it somehow and drill your holes, make sure you've got a sharp drill bit. The easy out set I have has matching sized drill bits. Use the biggest size easy out that will fit otherwise you might snap the bugger.

If you don't have a compressor a good little trick to get grips off is to get a screw driver up between the grip and the bar as far as you can and spray some wd40 up there along side the screwdriver. Twist it around a bit and off it comes. Make sure you clean the WD off the grip before you put it back on though.