Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

After putting the brakes back on the R1, I can't seem to get any pressure in the lever at all despite numerous bleeding attempts.

I thought the master cylinder may have be broken after the crash but brake fluid is coming out of the bleed valves, so I'm not sure the master cylinder is broken. I think the brakes worked after the crash, but the fluid was drained during the pulling apart and putting back together. I did change the pads but I didn't remove the pistons, merely pushed them back in a bit.

Is it worth cracking the banjo's at the master cylinder and the calipers to bleed off any air?

bishboy wrote:Is it worth cracking the banjo's at the master cylinder and the calipers to bleed off any air?

Yeah i would sure give that a go seems thats what worked for mine b4 when i kept trying to bleed them & no luck till i done that

i they bleed all the way out its pretty hard. i stuck the hose on the bottom nipple and sucked on it till the fluid came through.

some mechanics have a vacuum bleeder that does the same thing. once you have fluid down the bottom, bleed as normal.

Get a 'Speed-Bleeder' kit. These have a 1-way valve in the tube that fits over the bleed nipple. Just fit the tube, open the nipple, and pump the brake lever repeatedly (keep the fluid level up..) - you should get lever pressure. Repeat on the other side.

when i goot my calipers off, the fluid just syphoned out on its own, even witht he 1 man bleeder kit, i couldnt get the fluid going. so i sucked the stuff through!

Is it running Goodridge lines like mine that cross from the right to the left caliper ie one line to m/c ?
If so try bleeding as per Gos's post starting with the R/H caliper then the left.(if you use the 'Wattie method' I would recommend a long length of clear pvc tube ie evapourative air con hose from hardware etc---B/F tastes almost as bad as gearbox oil!! )

You may even have to unbolt,chock the pads and raise L/H caliper to bleed properly.
Mine was a bitch as I couldn't get the air lock out of the crossover pipe for at least 2 beers!!

I now have the mother of all vacuum bleeders

Brakes are fixed, the lever is a harder than a 15 year old watching porn.

Cracked the banjo bolt at the master cylinder (running twin braided goodridge lines) and did a couple of bleeds at the master cylinder and a couple at each caliper's banjo joint just for good measure.

It should now stop like a thing that stops quickly or even possibly as quick as a woman passing a shoe sale , with the new EBC GFA pads (from Aussie Parts for same price as HH pads ) and new Castrol SRF fluid (as recommended by hemi)