Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

After my off on the R1 (pic of the damage below) I've put a new handlebar on and hooked everything back up but now the throttle does not snap shut but it does close by itself by veeeery slowly and therefore I assume it won't pass scrutineering.

Could I have kinked the cable when the handlebar bent? Any thoughts on a solution, I don't really want to remove the cables, but I may have to

Firstly make sure the inside of the throttle tube is not chaffed. It could be catching on the new bar. If that's OK, then I would check for a bent cable sleeve to see if it is binding there. the grip hasn't stretched over the end of the throttle tube has it???

Also check you've got the slack adjusted correctly in the cables. If the push cable is too tight it stops it from returning smoothly.

The grip isn't stretched over the end of the bar as the grip has actually got a hole in the end of it , new one ordered

Cable still has the same amount of slack in it as before, the whole action just seems tight/less free than before

also try your barends they could be tighten too much
i had this problem on my 10

bishboy wrote:The grip isn't stretched over the end of the bar as the grip has actually got a hole in the end of it , new one ordered

Cable still has the same amount of slack in it as before, the whole action just seems tight/less free than before

Perhaps I havn't made myself clear. What I was eluding too, was that the rubber grip might be hanging over the end of the throttle tube and catching on the handlebar tube...not over the end of the bar. Next time you ask for help, maybe i'll just shut up!

Perhaps I havn't made myself clear. What I was eluding too, was that the rubber grip might be hanging over the end of the throttle tube and catching on the handlebar tube...not over the end of the bar. Next time you ask for help, maybe i'll just shut up!

I think we've got crossed wires here. I understood you to mean that, but the rubber grip has got a hole in the end and the handlebar tube sticks out the end of the throttle tube, as per picture.



One other thing I've just thought of is that I got the handlebar tubes are very slightly bigger diameter than the original and the throttle tube could be a bit tight and therefore grabbing, but from memory it seemed quite loose, have to have a look when I get home.

Yes you are right it does stick out the end just like ALL throttle grips should!!!!!! I was speaking of the last few mm's of grip, binding on the bar. Now that you have posted a pic, I can probably guess at what has happened and what's causing it to bind.

bishboy wrote:...Cable still has the same amount of slack in it as before, the whole action just seems tight/less free than before

It's easy enough to check, maybe you should just have a look and see before dismissing it out of hand, especially given the symptoms are exactly what you are describing...

The bars should be fine, they are the exact same external size as most bars and after market clip ons. The work fine on mine.
You could also try adjusting the position of the thottle housing. I found with the 10 I had to experiment with a few different positions around the bar until it would operate cleanly.

MadKaw wrote:The bars should be fine, they are the exact same external size as most bars and after market clip ons. The work fine on mine.
You could also try adjusting the position of the thottle housing. I found with the 10 I had to experiment with a few different positions around the bar until it would operate cleanly.

+1 on this. It is very female when it comes to the correct position.

Also make sure it is not catching inside the housing!

Why would ya want the throttle to snap shut...... keep it wide open.

All fixed.

After some swearing, yelling and calling of names the throtle hase been fixed. All it took was a combination of sanding the handlebar tube, cable adjustment and spot on positioning of the throttle tube, not to mention a small animal sacrifice to the bike gods and its (nearly) as good as new.

Now if I can only get the brakes to bleed properly Can't get any lever pressure, I hope the master cylinder isn't broken, but I'm positive the brakes were working after the crash .......

I see you are running braided lines but a Y piece or twin line set up not a crossover pipe...
Ignore post on other thread .........

Big kick ass horse type syringe (BM perhaps could help here) and clear pvc tubing is an innexpensive but very effective brake bleeding tool..

JetPilot wrote:Why would ya want the throttle to snap shut...... keep it wide open.

Exactly my thoughts Rod, but it doesn't help this dude......
It would also make an obvious excuse......officer the throttle does not snap shut

sorry bishboy, no practical advice ...