ZX10 GIPRO ATRE fitting

I'm not fussed about having more peak power from my 10, it's got more than enough. however, I did want to get a bit more throttle response in the lower revs of the lower gear, the stuff I use daily.
It seemed a TRE was the way to go, and why not throw in a gear indicator at the same time. I've often tried to change into 7th, and occassionally have left it in 5th too. There are a number of TREs on the market, but the GI Pro ATRE has all the features I wanted. Gear indicator and various setings, including one to bypass the TRE and run standard maps. The one I got has a blue LED, which suits my eyes, er um, the colour of my 10.
I did a little research into fitment, and decided to do the job myself. There are supposed to be some difficult bit to the fittment, mainly revolving around the removal of two wires from a block connector and rewiring the supplied connectors. Now, I'll admit, that in 12000Km and 18 months, I have never done any work on this bike aside from side fairing removal. I now had to remove the tank, airbox and a whole host of thing-a-ma-jigs that I was unsure about.
Armed with just a tattered A4 sheet to guide me, I set about taking my pride a joy apart. I wanted to leave as much in place as possible as I am lazy and it was cold. Small side panels and seat were off quickly, then I set about on the tank. It's got this really ingenious device for disconnecting the fuel line, which did take me a few minutes to work out how to remove, but made for very simple fuel line removal. Then there was the electrical connector for the fuel pump - I spent ages pushing the tab down and trying to prie the two halves appart. Then in a moment of desperation I lifted the tab and the connector parted like the sea for Moses.
With the tank on the bench I set about the airbox, as the 10 pin connector I needed was hidden just below one edge. Out came the screws, and stuff me, the air box is wider than the frame and would not shift. Best I could manage was to disconnect the rubber ram air mounts and try and hold the box out of the way with a bungee cord.
Finally, burried under two other connectors was the one I was looking for. I got it apart (this tab you do push down) and set about removing the pin protectors. Finally they were moved, and I was ready to remove the two required pins. I had researched this part, and it had stumped some people on ZX-10R.net. The trick is to use a small pointy device (I used a 1mm electrical screwdriver) and push the pin laterally down, before pushing is away through the conector. It's easy when you know how. I connected the removed wires into the supplied connectors, routed the battery wire and started to put things back together.
Before I'd done too much I decided to test my connections. I turned on the ignition and got a light, I hit the start button - nothing. Fuel light was flashing thought. So I sat the fuel tank back on the bike, connected the fuel and electrics and tried again. Power, lights, engine started, and the gear indicator quickly displayed each gear as I selected it. Excitedly I set about putting everything back together so I could go for a test ride. I completed bolting the tank in place, went to get the seat, and found the air filter.
So I removed the tank, fittied the air filter, refittied the tank, seat and side panels. A grabbed my kit and went for a short test ride.
Gear indicator works a treat, and the initial throttle response in 1st and 2nd is much better. My idle speed seems OK and I'm happy as a pig in pooh (just don't tell Christopher Robin).
It seemed a TRE was the way to go, and why not throw in a gear indicator at the same time. I've often tried to change into 7th, and occassionally have left it in 5th too. There are a number of TREs on the market, but the GI Pro ATRE has all the features I wanted. Gear indicator and various setings, including one to bypass the TRE and run standard maps. The one I got has a blue LED, which suits my eyes, er um, the colour of my 10.
I did a little research into fitment, and decided to do the job myself. There are supposed to be some difficult bit to the fittment, mainly revolving around the removal of two wires from a block connector and rewiring the supplied connectors. Now, I'll admit, that in 12000Km and 18 months, I have never done any work on this bike aside from side fairing removal. I now had to remove the tank, airbox and a whole host of thing-a-ma-jigs that I was unsure about.
Armed with just a tattered A4 sheet to guide me, I set about taking my pride a joy apart. I wanted to leave as much in place as possible as I am lazy and it was cold. Small side panels and seat were off quickly, then I set about on the tank. It's got this really ingenious device for disconnecting the fuel line, which did take me a few minutes to work out how to remove, but made for very simple fuel line removal. Then there was the electrical connector for the fuel pump - I spent ages pushing the tab down and trying to prie the two halves appart. Then in a moment of desperation I lifted the tab and the connector parted like the sea for Moses.
With the tank on the bench I set about the airbox, as the 10 pin connector I needed was hidden just below one edge. Out came the screws, and stuff me, the air box is wider than the frame and would not shift. Best I could manage was to disconnect the rubber ram air mounts and try and hold the box out of the way with a bungee cord.
Finally, burried under two other connectors was the one I was looking for. I got it apart (this tab you do push down) and set about removing the pin protectors. Finally they were moved, and I was ready to remove the two required pins. I had researched this part, and it had stumped some people on ZX-10R.net. The trick is to use a small pointy device (I used a 1mm electrical screwdriver) and push the pin laterally down, before pushing is away through the conector. It's easy when you know how. I connected the removed wires into the supplied connectors, routed the battery wire and started to put things back together.
Before I'd done too much I decided to test my connections. I turned on the ignition and got a light, I hit the start button - nothing. Fuel light was flashing thought. So I sat the fuel tank back on the bike, connected the fuel and electrics and tried again. Power, lights, engine started, and the gear indicator quickly displayed each gear as I selected it. Excitedly I set about putting everything back together so I could go for a test ride. I completed bolting the tank in place, went to get the seat, and found the air filter.
So I removed the tank, fittied the air filter, refittied the tank, seat and side panels. A grabbed my kit and went for a short test ride.
Gear indicator works a treat, and the initial throttle response in 1st and 2nd is much better. My idle speed seems OK and I'm happy as a pig in pooh (just don't tell Christopher Robin).