Installing Braided Lines

[Chingrish]

Hi all, i've recently purchased braided lines from overseas for my 636, just wondering if anyone's done the install themselves? Difficulty?

I remember seeing an install guide in an UK magazine but not sure which.
Does anyone have a comprehensive step by step guide of some sort?

cheers.

[Lone Wolf]

Helped a mate do it a while ago, wasn't really hard. Don't have any step by step guides though

[javaman]

Just don't spill the oil on paint

[matt76]

Install is easy just be sure to bleed them properly, some of the others on here might be able to tell you the right way to bleed them.

[Chingrish]

Im just abit worried there might be something tricky with putting new lines on. or is it just a straight swap sort of thing?

i dont have a problem with bleeding, i've done it before.

[Grasshopper]

use new copper or aluminium crush washers, bleed the side closest to master cyl first, take your time.
make sure you route 'em correctly and they don't rub.
check for leaks after bleeding and before riding.

enjoy the improved 'feel'.

[ozx6r]

i am not very mechanically minded but managed this quite easily, u'll be right!

[MrStompy]

what brand did you get?
HEL and Gooridge come with all the correct copper washers.

ive done this a few times recently and here is my process. Note i dont claim that this is the best way to do it or necessarily the correct way. Its just A way to do it and it worked for me.
i am no mechanic so im far from an expert.

What you need
you will need either a brake bleeding kit or some clear plastic hose that will fit over the bleed nipple on the calipers (but will seal so that the fluid will flow through it and not all over the caliper)
a clean jar to pump the fluid into.
a new full bottle of Motul RBF600 brake fluid (its your choice what you use but you only do this job every blue moon so you might as well use the good stuff)

Remove existing stuff
put one end of the clear hose on the bleed nipple (and the other end of the hose into the jar) and use a ring spanner to open the nipple.
Pump all the existing fluid that is in the resevoir through the hose.
I do it this way so i dont end up with fluid all over my wheels and caliper (there is probably a quicker way to do it)

then i undo the bolt that is holding that calipers brake line in and hold the jar under the end of the hose to catch any excess fluid.
then i undo the other side caliper.
then i undo the bolt at the master cylinder that is holding the brake hose/s and remove the standard hoses from the bike.

fitting the new stuff.
depends on what system you got how exactly you do this.
if its a two line full length system then both new lines start at the master cyclinder (the slightly longer hose will lead to the left side caliper.
otherwise you will probably have a long hose and short hose the long hose will go from the master cylinder to the right hand caliper and the short one will lead from the right caliper over to the left hand side.

use the new bolts and new copper washers on either side of each hose banjo. and do them up appropriately. the longer bolt is for where the two hoses are together either at the master cyclinder or at the right caliper - depending on system - put a copper washer between the two banjos.
note - if its a goodridge kit them be careful not to twist the heads of the bolts as they seem to be pretty weak.

To Bleed the brakes
Many people have different methods of doing this.
i use the same system i have used on cars previously and it seems to work.
I put the clear hose over the bleed nipple which is furtherest from the master cyclinder and crack it open. (in all cases for the front brakes this should be the left side)
i fill up the fluid resevoir with new fluid
and star pumping the brakes.
when i start getting fluid coming through the hose i do up this nipple and move to the opposite side and do the same thing till it is getting lots of fluid coming through it too.
then i move back to the other side and repeat this a few times.
keep an eye on the fluid in the resevoir and ensure you keep it topped up as if it runs dry you get more air in the lines and you are back where you started.

what you are trying to do is to pump enough fluid through the brake lines so that no more air is in the line. you can see if air is coming out of the lines still by the presence of air bubles in the fluid that is coming out of the nipple through the clear plastic hose you have on the bleed nipple.

another technique i use when its getting close to is to have the nipple open, pull the brake handle in, shut the bleed nipple, release the brake lever then repeat till you are satisfied there is no air left in either line.

some systems have a bleed nipple on the master cylinder. bleed this as well at the end.

Another good trick is to leave a cable tie or rubber band around the brake lever over night.
this allows air to seep back through the cyclinder to the resevoir.


there is other methods eg revers bleeding where you push the fluid in through the nipple but ive never done those so i cant comment - apparantly it is much quicker though

anyway i hope this is not confusing - its a pretty easy job to do. especially if you got someone to give you a hand.

if you are worried about it take it to a shop cause it will only take them a couple hours.
Be Careful when you ride it.
take it real easy till you are sure its all ok.
if it doesnt feel right then it probably isnt.

good luck with it

[Neka79]

good post stompy..i read most of it and it seems ok ... sounds the same way i did mine..i think..

[MrStompy]

cool thanks neka.

[Lone Wolf]

The only thing I would add is when you are bleeding the brakes, be careful of oil splashing out of the reservoir. When we changed the lines of my mates bike he has an MRA tinted screen, and the oil splashed up and corroded the tint leaving spots all over it.

Tip: release brake lever slowly

[Zteven]

Only thing I may add to assist is remove the resevoir rubber from master cylinder cap & just use that while bleeding, it's easier than screwing cap off all the time & you can see when rubber guts sucked in as to when you need top up. I used heaps of rags around master area to stop splash & before tightening top lines swing steering from side to side to make sure you have angle set right.

[Neka79]

yes..good points from punisher and Zteven... especially releasing the lever slowly, and pumping slowly to avoid splash...lay a heap of rags around the resevoir to avoid splash/spill, and use the rubber cap to avoid shit getting in there ( zteven said that too)

[greeny]

Or you could just do what Neka did when he bought his.



Get your mates to do it for you.

[MrStompy]

Get your mates to do it for you.

definately the easiest option