Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

My braided brakes arrived and i just went and tried to install them

after fitting and bleeding the rear brake line and pulling the front lines off i discovered that what i have been sent is an exact copy of the standard setup ie one line down to the right hand caliper and then a crossover line from the right caliper to the left.

the last time i put brake lines on a bike they were two full length lines from the lever to each caliper. i was told that set up would provide the best "feel".

so now i dont know what to do. do i call up the supplier and ask him to swap these front lines for the dual line system or is this standard setup fine?

i dont see the point in replacing them if i am not replacing them with the best set up.

thanks for the advice - hopefully this will be the last question from me about brakes

i just ordered a set and they offer 3 types...

s- standard...what ur bike comes with

c- cross over- over the mudguard like u got

F- full line- like u say, a line to each side...

i ordered the 2 full lines...guess i just wanted em that way..only thing is ill have this stupid clip on my front guard...

either way the braided lines will be better than stock, they wont have the expansion etc in them, so they will be better, but i dont kno if its proven better to have 2 complete lines..i think the over the guard way is a bit lighter...

i found this information on the HEL website

so i can dry my eyes now and just fit the damn things

http://www.helperformance.com.au/

Brake Doctor - What is the difference in performance between two full length front lines and an over the mudguard line kit ?

Nothing except for the way the system looks. Both systems operate in exactly the same way and give you the same performance. As the system is a closed hydraulic system without air in it when the fluid moves at one end the same movement takes place at the other end. Because they have different lengths doesn't mean that the system will work slower at one end than the other. Imagine pushing two sticks away from you which are both 6" long - the ends both move at the same time. Now imagine pushing two sticks - one is 6" and the other is 36" - the ends still both move at exactly the same time. So the over the mudguard gives the same performance as the 2 full length - it's just which you prefer.

Brake Doctor - What's better - three front lines using the oem splitter, 2 full length fronts or 2 fronts with one over the mudguard ?

As we have said above the three systems give the same performance but the three line front has an additional 2 possible leak points in the system, is heavier and harder to bleed than 2 front lines. It is easier to fit though as you follow the oem setup. Another thing to remember is do you race or use the bike on track days ? If so go for the 2 full length front as in the UK one of the ACU rules state that you are not allowed an over the mudguard system unless it is an original system.

ahh just fit it then!!

if it wasnt as good, OEM wouldnt do it!!

Hey Stompy good luck with the fitting mate.... make sure you use a dot 4 or better dot 5 fluid... no scrimping!

used the rbf600 fluid that someone reccomended to me on here ages ago (when i did your Zed actually )

Got all the lines fitted and bled.
took ages to get get any pressure on the front lever.

I read on here once that if you cable tie the lever down overnight and rebleed it you get any left over air out so i am giving that a try.
if anyone else knows any magic for doing a real good job then please let me know

Neka79 wrote:ahh just fit it then!!

if it wasnt as good, OEM wouldnt do it!!

very true neka.

i will give it a road test tmw and see if i can even tell the difference from standard to this.

MrStompy wrote:used the rbf600 fluid that someone reccomended to me on here ages ago (when i did your Zed actually )

Got all the lines fitted and bled.
took ages to get get any pressure on the front lever.

I read on here once that if you cable tie the lever down overnight and rebleed it you get any left over air out so i am giving that a try.
if anyone else knows any magic for doing a real good job then please let me know

Cable tie or rubberbands... you dont need much pressure all you are doing is opening the hole in the master cylinder to allow bubbles (if any) to rise up onto the filler section

I do this overnight then bleed one more time the next day including cracking the banjo joints at the top just a little to be sure

cool. glad im on the right path.

will rebleed tmw then road test and see how it goes.

the brake fluid that was in it was starting to look a little rough too. Definately was due for a fluid change.

Onya Stompy I always wondered about the effeciency of the new oem system. No i know thanks to Dr Stompy.
Thanks mate & good luck with the bleeding.

good stuff mate..make sure u remember to pump up the pads before ur test ride!!

a mate of mine forgot to pump it up, went out, wheelied his mates bike (after he put pads in) and had no brakes..destroyed the bike...

Brakes are so over rated anyways

Neka79 wrote:good stuff mate..make sure u remember to pump up the pads before ur test ride!!

a mate of mine forgot to pump it up, went out, wheelied his mates bike (after he put pads in) and had no brakes..destroyed the bike...

That would be interseting to watch

made this mistake after getting my first tyres and brake change got to end of st and almost hit a car

thanks everyone for your tips during this mod.

the lines are now fitted and bled and ready to go.

I didnt end up fitting pads yet cause there is plenty left in the pads that are in it.
i will do that before the next track day though (probably late april/may).

Havent had much chance for a test ride but the lever is definatley firmer now.
hopefully I can get out on some decent roads over the weekend and see how they perform although im probably not going to get to really see the beneifts till the next track day

Next mod is exhaust then rear sets. then im out of things to mod. Yeah right