by mike-s » Wed Aug 16, 2006 8:24 pm
do a search for dynojet and look for posts put up by myself (there are others, but i know i linked to uit at least once), theres a tuning guide linked in somewhere.
Basically it tells you to check mains first, then work your way down through looking at the needle height then the pilot screw, then the float levels. Each of these have a impact on the next to be checked, but not really much on the previous (i.e. mains affects needle height, but needle height doesnt affect mains/WOT, etc)
Besides i would have thought unless you were in the middle of jindabyne in mid winter, it'd take a lot less time than 30 mins to warm up. Perhaps 10 mins max.
But if its just off idle i agree, try turning the pilots in a half turn.
Remember, if the engine is cold and its fine then it goes to crap when warm, its running rich. Also if it runs piss poor when cold and goes great after a little while, its running lean.
Why? well when the carbs are cold and the fuel isn't being vapourised as effectively as when its up to operating temperature. Only part of the fuel is being burned, the rest is going out the exhaust. When its a bit lean, it'll be running v-lean until it warms up and its vapourising the fuel correctly. If its running rich, it'll run great until it all starts vapourising correctly.
A good compromise and one i thought they aimed for (well i do anyhow) is to get it to splutter a TINY bit for the first two to three mins, and then runs great afterwards. For me this means i've suited up and gone a max of maybe two km from home and am still babying it. Also remember this behaviour is better/worse depending on your location (brissie vs canberra f'rinstance) and the current season.

If it hurts, you aren't doing it right.