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Using quicksteel / JB Weld

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 12:28 pm
by mike-s
Hey, have any of you guys had exerience with using either quicksteel or JB weld? I got hold of a tube of quicksteel and yesterday started on fixing up a broken crankcase screwhead bolt, currently its sitting there and hopefully curing (i'll have to try again if it fails *sigh*)

This isn't an ordinary screw, but one with a 8ml thread, and has had that yellow "it-aint-goin-anywhere" loctite used on it. I killed the head on it when i screwed up using an impact driver :oops:, i used the wrong screwhead by accident and killed it in about 4 seconds flat.

So yeah, any good stories/horror stories with using these "miracle fixes"? fwiw im going to be replacing the screw with a non cheesehead stainless one i have got spare, i just need to get the fricking thing OUT.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:11 pm
by Johnnie5
if its got loctite on it , you need to use a bit of heat on it to deactivate the loctite before its going to come out

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:15 pm
by mike-s
hmm, well good thing i've got a pencil blowtorch, just a bit of low heat around the area i guess

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:26 pm
by Wattie
i've heard my old man, sepak of an "easy out"?? but i have no idea... :( sorry

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 1:33 pm
by mike-s
ive got a set of those, they are at hatter's place :-\.

if this doesn't fix it up, i'll have to try and get 'em back off him this week to see if i can try that instead.

I was only hessitant due to how tight the loctite was gripping, but if heat can solve that problem, then an easyout might be a good 2nd option...

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 2:43 pm
by BladeBoy
Mike, If you can get at it could you cut a (-) on the top with a hacksaw?
and of cause as suggested heat it up first.

PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 4:16 pm
by mike-s
ive already considered trying to do that, it isnt as easy to do as you'd think, it's behind where the sprocket goes (which i have removed) is (for a lack of a better word) recessed about three inches and is nice and close to being behind a pillar in the frame, which makes it less than easy to get to.

Ive already got an old minihacksaw blade and started trying to do a bit of that, if this qicksteel stuff falls over, i'm going to apply a bit of heat and use half a carbon steel hacksaw blade to do that very thing. I think the biggest thing is i didnt realise you had to heat the loctite to deactivate it...

PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:33 am
by mike-s
used my neighbours easy-outs and sheared the head off the bolt (the qick steel did f-all).

I've gotten the cover off, i will just drill down the centre of the remaining bolt and try using an easy out on that. failing that i'll use some yamaseal or something.

PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:51 pm
by Saki
are u going ot have to re-tap the thread ?

PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2006 4:37 pm
by mike-s
nah, just use a easy-out to remove the remainder of the bolt.

I'll have to drill a hole in the middle of the bolt first, then use a gas blowtorch to heat the area (a LOT) before using the easy-out to remove the rest of the bolt.

Also from a bit of reading on the loctite website, apparently the never-gonna-come-undone loctite has to be heated a lot before its removed, otherwise you may see some galling of the thread (pulling bits of the thread out), on the other one i've seen a little bit of that, will have to clean that thread up too before i go and refit a bolt in there....

But at least i can replace these shonky oil seals now.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:09 am
by mike-s
fyi i ended up cutting the bolthead off and just giving up on it, there are sufficient other mounting points for the casing part in the vicinity for it not to be needed *shrug*.

I may still try drilling it and easy outing it at another time.