Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Long story short...

Old chain (30,000k) had many tight/loose spots made terrible noise and as back wheel turned went tight - loose - tight - loose. Had new chain fitted while bike in for accident repairs. Go to lube the new chain today, and as back wheel goes round, it gets tight/loose/tight/loose. Fark!

Four possible cuases;
1) new chain is farked!! (probably not, been on bike 1 week)
2) I have a bent sproket (didn't get them changed as am cheap skate)
3) Bent rear axle (poss cheapest fix)
4) Bent drive gear (Major gearbox rebuild at $$$$$$$$$$$$$)

Opinions, ideas, where to start??? Not sure if I could tell if rear axle bent by such a small amount, same for gearbox final drive. I tried looking at them with covers off, but couldn't see any diviation.

Mike,
it's more likely to be a cheap chain they have fitted and as such is not in spec...........back to the shop m'boy

What again...

Thanks Paul. Might get new sprockets while I'm at it.

photomike666 wrote:What again...

Thanks Paul. Might get new sprockets while I'm at it.

Mike
I am with rossi...and yes you should get new sprockets

hmm if its not a cheap nasty chain...maybe its the sprockets (i always change em with the chain neway).... is the axl lined up squarely?? is the chain running plumb??

mate i'd probably get the chain and sprocket done together and make sure the alignment is spot on cos it can damage the bearing.

More $$$$$$$$$

Yep,Yep and Yep

Yep and make sure its a DID chain, and watch them do it, or ask to see it before they fit it.

I had exactly the same issue with a cheap and nasty chain that was fitted cause they were out of stock of the "good" (read DID) ones, but was assured that these were "as good" MY ASS, two chains later, they finally agreed to fit the frikkin DID that I originally asked for at no cost to me (after the first one, they said I'd have to pay for it - again, MY ASS)....

Needless to say, I have a new mechanic now who does as I ask

Mizz ZZR wrote:
Needless to say, I have a new mechanic now who does as I ask

nothing more frustrating then when u ask for sumthin in particular and they do there own thing...ill agree to that...

admittedly im not a mechanic...but if i ask for the top of the range, $200 gold DID chain like vale,sete & casey use..then by fark i want a DID chain....

I never saw much difference between the OEM and gold D.I.D. - got 30,000k out of them both. Both were lubed weekly, tension was checked and adjusted if needed when lubed. Did change sprockets last time, just didn't want to be spending a whole lotta cash right now. The bike has other ideas It shit itself this morning. Starter switch is shot, can only be replaced by getting whole new right hand switch gear $$$$$ It also needs cam chain adjuster, and possibly a cam chain. I didn't want to save any money this century anyway.

Trip to the wreckers or ebay is in the offing.
Or now would be a good time to lokk at the Kawasaki's on offer

Now you wouldnt reckon you would get much play on your rear sprocket bots/mount eh? (and I still do)
BUT (from an old engineer, not me) you MAY get a enough to cause exactly what you describe.
What he told me to do was to loosen all the sprocket bolts off and spin the wheel (with chain on obviously) and retighten.
To be honest I could never the difference but...

ps. I always do chain and sprockets together (unless I am playing with gearing) so I dont think I WOULD notice much as they are new. ALso modern sporties have countersunk bolts....

Booked in for new cam chain & tensioner, switch gear done and new sprockets on order. Will see what it's like after that, hopefully will be the cure to all ailments.

Switchgear was probably damaged in the accident Mike, any way of putting that back thru the insurance ??

Chain & sprockets should always be changed together.


Fred