Motul 5100

[mick_dundee]

And where can you get oil filters from, do Autopro or Super Cheap have them or do you have to go to a bike place?

Personally I just buy the genuine atricle from a bike shop, only $17 odd, you can though get a RYCO filter for the zzr600 that would probably be $5 from supercheap but I dunno which model it is and when I pull the old filter off I chuck it and put a new one on, not gonna fuck around taking it to Repco et al.. would be worth me ringing RYCO if I CBF but frnakly, I can't.

[Slow and wobbly]

Bogan
Try the 5100 or Advance VSX it may smooth things out.

Go to your nearest motorcycleatorium and ask for an oil filter - they will have one. Get the genuine from Kawasaki and pay a premium or get the garden variety and go for the no frills HiFlo Filtro that almost every workshop stocks. They both do the same thing - one costs more than the other. You need the HF 303. If you dont live within cooee of a bike shop then let me know I will pick one up for you and send it to you.

[Saki]

Kawasaki Used to charge me $25 for an oil filter, same filter that is designed for a yamaha at a shop down the road was $9... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm


wonder which one i went for ??

[IsleofNinja]

5lt Motul 300V 4T factory line 15W-50 esther synthetic and genuine filter for mine comes in at over $140!!! (was all they had except for rock oil...No thanks!!)

Hmmmm ... I payed the money and waited at the counter..... The sales guy asked if there was anything else I needed to which I replied "the blonde that comes with the oil!!!" .... better make 200 rear wheel hp for that price!! lol

[Gosling1]

I briefly considered that 300V Motul stuff the other day.........unti l realised it was $54.90 for only 2 *TWO* fuckin' litres !!!!! get farked, thats crap.

Motul 5100 will do nicely thanks.

[JetPilot]

I briefly considered that 300V Motul stuff the other day.........unti l realised it was $54.90 for only 2 *TWO* fuckin' litres !!!!! get farked, thats crap.

Motul 5100 will do nicely thanks.

Yep I just paid $99 for Motul 300v 4T 5W40 for 4 litres. But the track bike likes the exspensive stuff. My roady gets 5100.

[Neka79]

5lt Motul 300V 4T factory line 15W-50 esther synthetic and genuine filter for mine comes in at over $140!!! (was all they had except for rock oil...No thanks!!)

Hmmmm ... I payed the money and waited at the counter..... The sales guy asked if there was anything else I needed to which I replied "the blonde that comes with the oil!!!" .... better make 200 rear wheel hp for that price!! lol

my dealer at the 1000km service put it in my zed (300v)

everyone talks abt how the 5100 breaks down after abt 3-4000km... this stuff is almost at 5000km now, and it hasnt given a missed gear, or false nuetral..its bloody awesome stuff... i paid abt $90 for 4L... but u pay abt $45 for 5100 anyway, and it last half the distance...

let me know wot u think of the 300v mate...im loving it!!

[Gosling1]

......everyone talks abt how the 5100 breaks down after abt 3-4000km...

WTF ?? who has said that ? 5100 is one of the best oils out there........I haven't seen one single reference on this site to Motul 5100 breaking down after 3000km ??? I have used it for a couple of years, it has been a great oil, gearchanges fine, no false neutrals, it still looks good when it gets dropped after 6 or 8k........and the 12 sees redline every now and then, as you know mate ....

My dealer told me the other day, when I was asking about 300v, that the actual purpose and recommended use of 300V is for use in competition 4-stroke Motocross bikes - Big singles that run *really* tight clearances and *huge* revs......thats what its *designed* for. There is nothing stopping its use in normal streetbikes of course.....but its really a waste of money. Your Z1000 does not rev to 14 or 15k, there is little benefit in running this type of oil in your engine. Your dealer has been diddling you for $100 oil costs per service since 1000km !!!!!

[penno]

I work for an oil company and when I bought my first bike I rang our lubes specialty guys to find out what the best oil for my bike was. They gave me the grade and the particular product name that our company makes but recommended that I contact the person I bought off to find out what oil they had been using and whether they had been sticking to that grade and brand. As long as they had been, the specialty guys recommended that as long as it was the correct grade I should stick with that even if it meant buying a competitors product. Had something to do with different additive compatabilty and detergents (the fella got way too technical for me) used by the various companies. The gist of what he was saying though was that if you changed brands was that you risked accelerating engine wear.

When I bought my zzr600 (1994 - 65,00K's) I asked the guy I bought the bike from and he showed me a number of empty 5100 containers plus gave me an unopened 1 litre bottle (plus a new filter!) that he had bought for between oil/filter changes.....

So I've stuck with 5100 in my ZZR even though it costs more than my own company's product. I use hardly any oil between changes - couple of 100mls max - never have problems with clunky changes or false neutrals......

[Neka79]

......everyone talks abt how the 5100 breaks down after abt 3-4000km...

WTF ?? who has said that ? 5100 is one of the best oils out there........I haven't seen one single reference on this site to Motul 5100 breaking down after 3000km ??? I have used it for a couple of years, it has been a great oil, gearchanges fine, no false neutrals, it still looks good when it gets dropped after 6 or 8k........and the 12 sees redline every now and then, as you know mate ....

My dealer told me the other day, when I was asking about 300v, that the actual purpose and recommended use of 300V is for use in competition 4-stroke Motocross bikes - Big singles that run *really* tight clearances and *huge* revs......thats what its *designed* for. There is nothing stopping its use in normal streetbikes of course.....but its really a waste of money. Your Z1000 does not rev to 14 or 15k, there is little benefit in running this type of oil in your engine. Your dealer has been diddling you for $100 oil costs per service since 1000km !!!!!

mate EVERYONE whinges at me that i run my oil for 6000km...ur the `1st person who has backed me!!

i was told by an oil rep years ago, that the oil is designed for 10,000km plus, so 6000km wont hurt it...

maybe the 300v is overkill?? maybe its not?? ...but is an extra $50 every 6000km really an issue if it makes me feel safe??

fuck it..it'll do!!

[Gosling1]

- if it makes you warm and fuzzy inside, thats all that matters !! 10k eh ? thats a pretty good distance between changes....

[IsleofNinja]

Put the 300V (liquid gold/diamonds/significant other precious mineral) in after work today..Bike has done only 2000 odd km since last oil change and has run S100 since new..12000km odd now / oil change avg every 2000km (previous owner thing!?)


I took her out after service and noticed an immediate improvement to the gearchange and clutch operation...I will not go so far as to say it's the duck's guts over 5100 as I have not used that oil yet.

I agree that chopping and changing oils is not a good practice so if you find a good one you are happy with , stick to it ..

As gos said the 300v is recommended for racing applications..Much as I like to give the 10 a good workout , I don't push it to it's limits lap after lap / hour after hour..(I don't kid myself or anyone else I'm gp rider material) In my mind the 300v is an awesome oil so far but perhaps not necessarily justified in you average late model sports bike

Shell synthetic , Motul semi syn / double esther and Silkolene syn are about the top three for bikes in my experience.. But as mentioned , get a good oil and stick to it where possible..and remember oil is cheaper than engines ... Regards

[MadKaw]

Personally I think Motul is overpriced...

I use to use the shell full synthetic but now I use the Castrol r4 full synthetic..
You can get it 7 days a week at supa cheap and if you wait for the 20% of sales its $48..

I agree about changing oils, change the liquid but not the brand as it can cause sludge build up and excess wear.. Dave Cullen (TKA manager) told me that many years ago.

[hills110673]

Gosling1 wrote:
don't waste your money on full synth Mick - you could use Valvoline 15W-40 from Supercheap in your rig, it will be fine and save you money.


I strongly disagree using any automotive oil in ANY bike with a wet clutch. Car engine oils use friction modifiers to reduce wear, however this over time can form a slippery layer on clutch plates, which in a wet clutch (bar the few bikes that run seperate engine and gearbox oils) can produce slippage. The plates will be well within tolerance, but the friction modifiers will be inbed into the clutch material.

[Gosling1]

aah, the old 'friction-modified' wives tale pops up yet again.

Castrol made a 'friction modified' oil about 20 or 30 years ago , when 'Oils ain't oils Sol ' ......and yes, that *particular* brand of Castrol automotive oil (Castrol GTX) was not recommended for use in motors with a wet clutch. It even said so on the side of the bottle ...

You won't find that message on modern-day motor oils. You can use just about any SE-rated engine oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch without clutch slippage problems. One of the boys up here has run Shell Rimula X in his GTR for years, and its a diesel motor oil !! It is also one of the highest-quality mineral oils that money can buy - and he swears by it.

Check the manufacturers specs for the *right* oil for your bike motor. The rating of the oil and the viscosity are the only important things. And if you are still unsure, check the fine print on the label - 99 times out of 100, it will state that the oil is suitable for use in motorcycle engines .......

......the only thing that changes is the price - Put a picture of a motorcycle or a boat on the bottle, and its *instantly* twice as expensive !!!