GPZ750 fork seals

[Eastoe]

Looking to replace fork seals on my 82 GPZ750.
I've been around this process plenty of times but haven't actually done it myself.
All looks pretty straight forward except for the "front fork holder handle and holder adapter (special tool)".
(Quoted from genuine workshop manual.)
What is a simple way to hold the front fork so the allen key can be removed and the fork disassembled?

[h.b.bear]

I just left mine in the tree until i loosen it then just loosen tree clamp an slid fork out then pulled apart

[Gosling1]

sometimes leaving the fork assembled can work - there can be enough pressure on the damping rod to hold it in place while you undo the bolt at the bottom of the fork legs.

But sometimes there isn't - what I have done is make up a tool that just fits down inside the fork leg and locks the top of the damping rod firmly, so the allen bolt can be undone. Just a long piece of steel tube with a 19mm bolt welded to the end. That has worked on a lot of fork legs.

In a pinch - I know that some punters have just pushed a broomstick down inside the forkleg and pushed on it really hard, while someone else undoes the bolt it has worked though.

[bonester]

Rattle gun will spin it out no worries

[Gosling1]

I had 1 set of forks legs where the rattle gun rounded out the allen head - they were a nightmare

never used a rattle gun on fork legs since that one.......

[bonester]

Bugger!

[Gosling1]

yeh - it might have been a 1-off or a dodgy fitting on the rattle gun ? I know some other mechanics who reckon rattle guns are the go for this job.....I just don't trust them the rattle-guns that is

[bonester]

I have a gutless supercheap one. That's my secret!

[Eastoe]

I tried undoing the allen bolt with forks in the clamps this afternoon.
The bolt in the left leg came out fine but the bolt in the right leg has more resistance.
It's moved but doesn't feel good. Not like a normal bolt cracking and then undoing smooth and clean.
This one feels like it's binding and I don't want to force it. almost as if it's cross threaded or could it be spring pressure?
This is 30 year old bike that hasn't been ridden for 20 years. Probably never been apart.
Starting to think it might be better off given to a proffesional for a proper clean out.

[Gosling1]

what you are feeling is the allen bolt turning the damper rod inside the fork. The resistance is the spring pressure. This is pretty normal - it won't be cross-threaded or anything, like you say, the forks on this bike have not been apart since they left the factory 30 years ago

I reckon you would find it pretty easy to mount the forkleg in a vice, after the oil has been drained out, spring removed and the fork cap taken off - then get a mate to push a broom handle into the forkleg until it bottoms out - It will bottom out on the top of the damper rod. Old mate just needs to lean on this while you turn the allen bolt. 9 out of 10 times the pressure of the handle will hold the damper rod from moving and the allen bolt will undo normally.

[Eastoe]

ok, I'll give it a go.

[Eastoe]

should the gasket/washer under the allen bolt that holds the fork lower to the damper rod be a copper washer or a nylon gasket?

[bonester]

copper

[bonester]

or aluminium

[Eastoe]

got the copper one back in. It just seamed a bit too neat a fit and was difficult to line up.