For general Technical and Performance Discussions
Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:20 pm
Hi, Im am going to check (and likely adjust) the valve shims over the break and I was just doing abit of reading on some sites and they say you should sychronise the throttle bodies at the same time. Reading further it sounds like this is a bitch of a joib, needing special tools and computer software. Anyone had this done or done it yourself? any idea what the kawasaki dealer would charge? I was going to strip it down and take it in to have the valves checked anyway.
Thanks
Ben
Fri Nov 29, 2013 12:12 am
It's a bit fiddly to do, but not high tech at all. Probably the hardest bit is setting it up so that it can run without the tank in place - harder for you fuel injected guys, not so hard for carbed bikes:

You want to equalise the vacuum in each throttle runner. I used to have a bottle of mercury (explains a few things!) and just put each or the four tubes into that, but now (think of the children!) I use a set-up with diesel, and tee-d them into each other, so you need to equalise each pair of tubes:

One mod I want to do is to put a small (~1mm) jet into each tube to smooth it a bit - the fluid level is a bit jumpy at idle.
(-8
Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:34 pm
diesel - that's an interesting idea. A few blokes I know who have made up their own manometers use auto trans fluid.
Mercury resists the problem you get at idle with the big fluctuations - but its not something you really want to be dicking around with.
Mr Faulty - do the valve-clearances first, so the engine is pulling the right amount of air through each cylinder. Then do the balance. Not the other way around.
Mon Dec 02, 2013 2:42 pm
Fantastic, thanks!
Mon Dec 09, 2013 5:49 pm
to dampen the bouncing gauges i use small irrigation taps available from just about any hardware store for about 60 cents each and a couple of polly risers as adaptors on the old suzuki the adapters go into the intake manifolds so the pionty polly adapters screw straight in on the 12 i have 4 vacume hoses in place numbered and pluged just pull them outone side unplug em connect the gauges adjust the taps to dampen piece of piss really i tried to upload pics but its much easier to do the job than resize the photo
Last edited by
mick12 on Tue Dec 24, 2013 9:51 am, edited 1 time in total.
Wed Dec 18, 2013 1:16 pm
Thanks for the reply everyone. Anyone have any idea how much it would cost to have it done - I will be stripping it down and checking the valve gaps
Sun Jan 05, 2014 9:30 am
Another thought, per the FCRs I used to run on the old ZXR, I synced my TBs by eye (bought a spare set, pulled them apart to remove the secondary butterfly shaft and servo, hence they needed syncing). From memory there's a single screw between the two pairs, turn the idle screw right down so that there is a tiny crescent of light under the butterfly,and it's very simple getting a 'close enough' match - 'close enough' for me as the bike is a trackie only, hence a rough idle is not of any concern.
Cheers,
Brian
Wed Mar 05, 2014 9:53 am
Hi again. I have just spoken with a mechanic at kawasaki and he said the simplest way is to purchase a vacuum guage - from supercheap ebay etc.
Has anyone adjusted the throttle bodies using one of these and is it fairly straight forward?
Thanks
Ben
Wed Mar 05, 2014 4:39 pm
Nope - you need a specific vacuum guage for a bike- someone I know (ahem) bought 4 car ones years ago with no dampening and the needles jumped around like crazy- of no use at all. Best thing- buy a morgan carbtune- cheap $180 or so last time I checked, and tough- mercury gauges break really easily- had two sets before the morgan. Never again.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:44 pm
As above "Morgan carbtune"...$124.00 oz... delivered from Belfast.
http://www.carbtune.com/
Thu Mar 06, 2014 8:24 am
Thanks, just found a bike mechanic who said he'll do it for $100 so might get him to do it and if it makes a notable difference, then I'll buy the correct tool and do it myself next time.
Thanks again
Ben
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