Glen wrote:IsleofNinja wrote:Without trying to sound like a wanker, '
Now mate c'mon you don't need to try to sound like a wanker.......
Just kidding.... Good explanation of what happens. So i presume your saying to take it easy, probably not as easy as the manual says but vary it around a lot and give it the odd run up through the rev range without thrashing it.
Question for you on oils . Whats the real deal on Synthetic Oils. I've heard varying points of view from you shouldn't run it until x klm's, I've also heard you shouldn't change it too early etc. I've had full synthetic in mine from 6000klm's and I chhnge it every 3000.
Hi Glen.
Not saying take it easy , just don't ring it's neck straight up or baby it too much either!
Put it this way - If I were to buy a brand new ride in Say Cairnes , I'd check her over take a few essentials then do the Atherton loop a couple of times. The idea is to load the engine and keep it working up and down the rev range gradually increasing your maximum RPM in stages.
In Siiidaneee the Putty etc..
You want corners and hills ideally (plus what better roads to run in your new bike!?)
I do use a few different views on oils depending on which bike and how you ride it.
Ie; the 10 gets the top shelf V300 sythetic Motul every 3000 odd km same as yours but is only unveiled on Sundays generally.
The KLR and GSF1200 are daily riders and get Silkolene semi syn every 5000km mainly coz it's a shitload cheaper and available from stupid cheap on Sundays![It's also a good honest clean running oil I have run for many years with no issues.]
I tend to stick with the one oil rather than chop and change. If I'm happy with an oil I generally use only that oil from then on in for that engine.
If it looks dirty in the sight glass it's really farkin dirty!!!
Ps. There is no reason why a full Syn oil could not be used after 5 or 6000km
If you run it in right you could use a decent full syn oil at 1000km!!