javaman wrote:Okay.. so my stator resistance reading are 1.5ohms, 4 ohms, and 3.7ohms.
Manual says it should be 0.3 - 0.4 ohms.
Is that a logical fault since my understanding is that either they can short out (0 ohms) or open (infinity ohms)... ?
At the moment stator output at 4000rpm is a mere 12v where it should be 53 volts (AC current)... need to rule out whether it's a stator or rotor (magnet) problem.
Thanks....
javaman wrote:I used 100 Vac resolution so no question about the accuracy (I guess)...
I come to the conclusion that the stator is screwed. Will need to rewind the thing if it's too expensive to replace.
Does anyone know whether the winding of stator on ZX6R is Y-wound or Delta-wound ?
Will also need to trace why the stator gave up. Hopefully the regulator is not fcuked ...
Thanks....
Strika wrote:javaman wrote:I used 100 Vac resolution so no question about the accuracy (I guess)...
I come to the conclusion that the stator is screwed. Will need to rewind the thing if it's too expensive to replace.
Does anyone know whether the winding of stator on ZX6R is Y-wound or Delta-wound ?
Will also need to trace why the stator gave up. Hopefully the regulator is not fcuked ...
Thanks....
For a rewind, try Bert at Small Coil Rewinds in Geelong. I don't have the number so look it up ya lazy bugger!Oh, and he is the best in the business Andi!
mrmina wrote:it will be a star (Y) rewind to put out more voltage.
Y uses voltage across 2 phases where delta uses voltage across one phase. If i could draw a pic, u'd understand what i mean.
i'm 99% sure it will be star (Y).
Yankee wrote:Have you got pics Andi of what you had to do? eh, probably not since they aren't here, huh?
You said solder broken part, did you have to just "re-attach" some broken windings????
bonester wrote:I would disconnect the wiring from the stator connector plug (goes to regulator) and measure the AC voltage with the bike running. There should be three yellow wires in most instances. (some have two) My bikes have an output of around 70 volt AC per phase @ 4000 or so RPM. (measured between phases, not to ground) If you don't have an EVEN output of the phases it would point to the stator or it's wiring. What you DON'T want is a short to ground from any of the phases. AT low resistance values like you mention I would not be too concerned about the values as the multimeters won't be too accurate there.
One of my GNs has fried two stators or wiring in the last year- I caught the last one- wiring fried and shorted where it left the engine case. I assume that the wiring fries, and the stator can't stand being shorted for long and fries itself. I just put new wires on the stator and she has been good to go since. Why is this happening to a KAWASAKI? Usually a piece-of-shit SUZUKI problem!
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