For general Technical and Performance Discussions
Fri Jun 27, 2008 7:40 pm
Hey all,
Just stuck abit on changing the rear brake pads for my zxr250, which nuts or bolts need to come of so i can replace them, there are 2 rubber dots what it seems to be to the best description i can give, there are 2 of them on the left and right on the brake calipar, my question is how do i remove it.
It may be a stupid question but hey im new and i gota learn at some point

your feedback and help will be greatly appriciated.
cheers! fadi.
Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:31 pm
Post a pic of the rear brake caliper and I will tell you how to do it. Some bikes are different to others but have the same princeable
Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:17 am
DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE "BLACK DOTS" . These are the caliper slide pin seals and damaging them will allow the ingres of dirt /moisture - sieze the slide pins and effectively your caliper will then be useless.
Some tokico's have locating pins for the pads which are removed and the pads extracted without removing the caliper itself.
Others need the caliper removed via the anchor plate bolts (normally hex socket / allen key job) , the pistons spread and the pads removed from the underside of the caliper.
As TM said , post a pic and you'll get all the destruction you need... errrr instruction
Sat Jun 28, 2008 4:27 pm
loosen chain tension, remove the rear wheel, and pad- just twist out from their retaining arms quite easy when you knoe how.
before you put the new ones in get a G-clamp and puch the caliper pistons in, (you do this cause the new pads are thicker and will make it alot easier when you go to put the wheel back on

)
fit the new pads in the opposite way of them coming out and make shore the vibration arm is located properly, fit the rear wheel and adjust chain to 15-25mm play, whilst sitting on it
good luck may seem daunting but once you have done it once its a piece of cake
cheers Tim
Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:26 pm
tim, your method seems to be abit confusing lol but as i have seen on the bike, i have locaed the hex bolts so it should just come out with the correct allen key. i shall post up pics within a few days, also i got told that rear brake pads for my bike are around $32? good price or shall i keep looking?
cheers.
Sat Jun 28, 2008 9:45 pm
Mate one thing I can't stress enough is QUALITY in brake pads!!
That price is pretty reasonable.. You might save $10 or $15 on cheaper crap pads that aren't bonded properly or crap compound..
I tend to stick with EBC . which are around that price for most bikes for a set.
Sun Jun 29, 2008 7:01 pm
Well they are only the rear pads, the shop worker said i didn't need soft compound and my fronts have already been changed.
So what do you think, get new set for front and rear soft compound? money is not an issue here i prefer quality rather than price.
cheers.
Sun Jun 29, 2008 8:50 pm
No . You were advised correctly
I would run a medium to hard compound on the rear. Organic is fine.
You want good feel on the rear brake rather than ultimate stopping power so much IMO.
A better quality pad will tend to save your rear rotor a bit.
Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:03 pm
i just find it easier to remove the rear wheel as once you undo those bolts and the brake caliper is free if they havent been done in a while the pads may be a little tricky to take out and you can only move it as far as the brake hose will let you,,,,
where if the wheel is removed you have ample space, and you can feed the wheel shaft back through the mounting bracket of the caliper and pry the pads out

also you can do a few mre checks on your bike while doing this, sprocket condition, chain condition, wheel bearings

cheers Tim
Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:40 pm
Thanks Tim,
To take of the rear wheel do i need a wheel stand or what is the prefered method and best way to take of the wheel and have the bike still up?
Also, my chain and the under carriage of the bike is abit oily and dirty, i want to give it a clean, i saw at MCAS chain cleaner and clain lube, stupid question cant i use normal degreaser or must it be the proper stuff from the shop?
cheers! fadi
Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:45 pm
yer just a rear stand will do to pick up on the swing arm or special spools that screw into the threads near the chain adjustment.
i use kero to clean my chain

just make shore you get most the kero off the chain before refitting as kero can damage paint if not removed asap, for chain lube on fairings metho and some paitience will do (metho wont damage paint!)
cheers Tim
Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:21 am
kawasaki250 wrote:just make shore you get most the kero off the chain before refitting as kero can damage paint if not removed asap, for chain lube on fairings metho and some paitience will do (metho wont damage paint!)
cheers Tim
Other way 'round, Tim.
Metho is an ingredient in paint thinners, and will dull paint. Kero shouldn't do anything to paint, and is a far better solvent for chain lube.
Mon Jun 30, 2008 4:20 pm
i thought kero is petrol based?
and i have used metho on all my bikes wid no problem ay lolz
Mon Jun 30, 2008 4:38 pm
Wouldn't kero wear / eat away the o-rings in the chain?
Mon Jun 30, 2008 5:41 pm
Kerosene's more like diesel than petrol. It's slightly abrasive, but not enough to dull paint without serious scrubbing (that'd probably damage it with any solvent!). Most bug and tar removing solvents marketed for use with car paints are kerosene based. It's a much better solvent for greases and waxes than metho as an added bonus.
Methylated spirits WILL dull paint given enough exposure. Two pack's very resistant to it once hardened (more so than acrylic lacquers), but it'll eventually get damaged. You can actually wipe cured two pack with thinners and it'll stay shiny - for a while. I don't recommend it, though.
Same with petrol - exposure will eventually dull even two pack.
Rob, not enough to worry about. By the time it's damaged the O rings sufficiently to cause concern the chain's worn out anyway.
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