Hehehe, good luck finding whatever the hell it was that came off. There are two ways to design engines, one with the output sprocket seal between the two halves of the crankcase, and the other (good) way whereby there is only a ballrace held between the halfs of the crankcase and there is an external plate that covers the output shaft & houses the oil seal on it.
The manual for my old gpx said you had to take the clutch slave unit & extension rod off, then take the plate cover off (the bastard bit was the cheese head bevelled screws just next to the sprocket, caused me a bunch of headaches ) and pull it out with the gear lever output shaft, disconnect the selector coupling from the gear lever, hope to hell nothing shoots off (as you'll have a prick of a time replacing them) punch the oil seal out from the inside and replace them.
I wasted over ten hours stripping crap off (alternator, water pump, clutch slave) and wrestling with the bolts cheeseheading (replaced them all with stainless steel ones) and two hours doing the actual replacement. I recommend if you go to the extent of doing all the above just replace ALL the oil seals at once (there should be either two or three depending on if you've a cable clutch or a hydraulic one) and be done with it for another 30-50kkm.
If you've got a hydraulic clutch there are two oil seals, one to seal in the hydraulic fluid, and one to seal in the engine oil. I've got to do the clutch one on my RF, apparently it is a design flaw (that they share with gixxers and expecially busa's) whereby there is no guard to stop shit flinging off the sprocket onto the clutch rod, which then slowly works its way through the oil seals and you start leaking either green or browny fluid depending on which one goes. I've got to replace the green one, might do that tomorrow on the "government inspired public holiday" (TM). The only disadvantage is we loose our christmas picnic day this year, no biggie, i work shiftwork most the tie anyway