Then used a boat repair kit (use woven, not chopped fibreglass, as the splinters from chopped SUCK) and put 2-4 layers of glass on, depending on the stress levels i anticipated the area getting. The trick is to get the ratio of curing agent to glass just right, oh and regardless of how much you use, it helps keeping the item in front of a heater for about 6 hours to really assist the glass in hardening thoroughly.
Mike mate, I've thought about offering you a job dude but after that desciption I'm gonna give it a miss, sounds like ya a softcock who's scared of a couple o splinters

, oh and catalyst ratios usually run at 1-2.5% dependant on product and ambient temp and humidity.
In all honesty the best way to go is use epoxy as this adheres to ABS better than polyesters, if ya gonna use polys then pepper the panel with holes(approx 2mm) around the repair site to give the resin something to grip into. After completing the repair to the back dish out the face to a depth of .5mm and skim with polyester bodyfiller and flat back to a 240 finish, primer area with high build primer to fill any porosity and flat back to 800 w/d finish, for a top finish w/d complete panel if paint is sound, if not base prime complete panel and flat back with w/d again.
When you are 100% sure of the finish, then and only then topcoat after washing panel down with prepsol/wax and grease remover.
Apply paint as specified by supplier, usually two light wet coats and allow to tack, if 2pac ya can double up at this point and allow a few hours to dry before touching, I only fit after a few hours if it is an emergency as paint is still not fully cured and can quite easily mark with finger prints etc, I always leave my paint 7 days at gun finish before chopping back flat and polishing that way ya know its hard
Good luck with ya learners mate
